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Enjoy the rue de Rivoli location without paying the usual prices. This old hotel is slowly being renovated, so try to get one of the newer rooms with a view over the Tuileries opposite (see Jardin des Tuileries).

Napoleon’s triumphal arch, celebrating battle victories, stands proudly at the top of the Champs-Elysées and, along with the Eiffel Tower, is one of the city’s most enduring images.

Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the architect of Versailles, designed the façades of this elegant royal square for Louis XIV in 1698. The square was intended to house foreign embassies but bankers soon moved in and built lavish dwellings. It remains home to jewellers and financiers today. The world-famous Ritz hotel was established here at the turn of the 20th century (see Ritz Hotel). The central column, topped by a statue of Napoleon, is a replica of the one destroyed by the Commune in 1871.

This immense belle époque exhibition hall was built for the Universal Exhibition in 1900. Its splendid glass roof, visible from all over Paris, is a landmark of the Champs-Elysées. The façade, the work of three architects, is an eclectic mix of Art Nouveau ironwork, Classical stone columns and a mosaic frieze, with bronze horses and chariots at the four corners of the roof. The Galleries du Grand Palais host temporary art exhibitions.

The “little palace” echoes its neighbour in style. Set around a semi-circular courtyard, with Ionic columns and a dome, the building now houses the Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris. This includes medieval and Renaissance art, 18th-century furniture and a collection of 19th-century paintings.

Commissioned by Napoleon and named after his victory over the Austrians at Rivoli in 1797, this grand street links the Louvre with the Champs-Elysées (see Avenue des Champs-Elysées). It was intended as a backdrop for victory marches but was not finished until the 1850s, long after the emperor’s death. Along one side, railings replaced the old Tuileries walls, opening up the view, while opposite, Neo-Classical apartments sit atop the long arcades. These are now filled with a mix of shops, selling luxury goods or tourist souvenirs.

Running roughly parallel to the Champs-Elysées, the Paris equivalent of Fifth Avenue, Bond Street or Rodeo Drive is this high street of international glamour. From Christian La Croix and Versace to Gucci and Hermès, the shopfronts read like a Who’s Who of fashion. Even if the prices may be out of reach, window-shopping is fun. There are also elegant antiques and art galleries, such as La Cour aux Antiquaires at No. 54.

In the late 18th century this former royal palace and garden underwent extensive changes under the dukes of Orléans. The architect, Victor Louis, was commissioned to build 60 uniformly styled houses around three sides of the square and the adjacent theatre, which now houses the Comédie Française, France’s national theatre. Today the arcades house specialist shops, galleries and restaurants, and the courtyard is filled with striking modern works of art.

In the 19th century the Avenue Montaigne was a nightlife hotspot. Parisians danced the night away at the Mabille Dance Hall until it closed in 1870 and Adolphe Sax made music with his newly invented saxophone in the Winter Garden. Today this chic avenue is a rival to the rue Faubourg-St-Honoré as the home to more haute couture houses such as Christian Dior and Valentino. There are also luxury hotels, top restaurants, popular cafés and two theatres, the Comédie des Champs-Elysées and the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées.

The avenue was re-named the Champs-Elysées (Elysian Fields). In Greek mythology, the Elysian Fields were the “place of ideal happiness”, the abode of the blessed after death.

This famous Left Bank boulevard runs for more than 3 km (2 miles) anchored by the bridges of the Seine at either end. At its heart is the church of St-Germain-des-Prés, established in 542, although the present church dates from the 11th century. Beyond the famous cafés, Flore and Les Deux Magots (see Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots), the boulevard runs west past art galleries, bookshops and designer boutiques to the Pont de la Concorde. To the east, it cuts across the Latin Quarter through the pleasant street market in the place Maubert, to join the Pont de Sully which connects to the Ile St-Louis (see Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis).

Devoted to the history of Paris, this museum sprawls through two mansions, the 16th-century Carnavalet and 17th-century Le Peletier. The former was the home of Madame de Sévigné, the famous letter-writer, from 1677–96 and a gallery here portrays her life. The extensive museum contains everything from period rooms filled with art and portraits to Revolutionary artifacts and memorabilia of 18th-century philosophers Rousseau and Voltaire.

When the Spanish-born artist Pablo Picasso died in 1973, his family donated thousands of his works to the French state in lieu of estate taxes. Thus Paris enjoys the largest collection of Picassos in the world. Housed in the Hôtel Aubert de Fontenay, the museum displays the range of his artistic development, from his Blue and Pink Periods to Cubism, and reveals his proficiency in an astonishing range of techniques and materials.

This civilized little park is no further from the city centre than Montmartre, yet it goes unnoticed by many visitors. It was created in 1778 by the Duc de Chartres and is still frequented by well-heeled residents. Its flowerbeds are colourful, while the grounds are full of statues and an air of well-being.

French author Victor Hugo (1802–85) lived on the second floor of the Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée, the largest house on the place des Vosges, from 1832 to 1848. He wrote most of Les Misérables here (see Les Misérables) and many other works. In 1903 the house became a museum of his life, with portraits and memorabilia.

Though many visitors never venture as far south as Montparnasse, its location is highly visible due to the 209-m (685-ft) Tour du Montparnasse which dominates the southern skyline and naturally affords spectacular views. Five minutes’ walk away is the area’s main draw for visitors, the Cimetière du Montparnasse, where the great writers Maupassant, Sartre, de Beauvoir, Baudelaire and Samuel Beckett are buried (see Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, Montparnasse Cemetery).

Although the rue Mouffetard is famous today for its lively street market held every Tuesday to Sunday, it has an equally colourful past. In Roman times this was the main road from Paris to Rome. Some say its name comes from the French word mouffette (skunk), as a reference to the odorous River Bièvre (now covered over) where waste was dumped by tanners and weavers from the nearby Gobelins tapestry factory. Though no longer poor or Bohemian, the neighbourhood still has lots of character, with its 17th-century mansard roofs, old-fashioned painted shop signs and affordable restaurants. In the market you can buy everything from Auvergne sausage to horse meat to ripe cheeses.

Built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition to carry visitors over the Seine to the Grand and Petit Palais, this bridge is a superb example of the steel architecture and ornate Art Nouveau style popular at the time. Named after Alexander III of Russia, who laid the foundation stone, its decoration displays both Russian and French heraldry. The bridge creates a splendid thoroughfare from the Champs-Elysées to the Invalides.

The Bastille has been a quarter of working-class artisans and craft guilds since the 17th century and many furniture makers are still located in these small alleyways, called passages . The rue du Faubourg-St-Antoine is lined with shops displaying a striking array of both traditional period furniture and modern designs, but don’t neglect to visit the narrow passages , such as the Passage de la Main D’Or, running off this and other streets in the Bastille. Many artists and craftspeople have their ateliers (workshops) in these atmospheric alleys, which are great fun to explore.

Begun in 1646, this enormous church unsurprisingly took 134 years to build. Its Classical façade by the Florentine architect Giovanni Servandoni features a two-tiered colonnade and two incongruously matched towers. Notice the two holy water fonts by the front door, made from huge shells given to François I by the Venetian Republic. Jacob Wrestling with the Angel and other splendid murals by Delacroix (1798–1863) are in the chapel to the right of the main door.

With its majestic arches and pillars, St-Eustache is one of the most beautiful churches in Paris. Although Gothic in design, it took 105 years to build (1532–1637) and its interior decoration reflects the Renaissance style that blossomed during this time. The church was modelled on Notre-Dame, with double side aisles and a ring of side chapels. The stained-glass windows made from sketches by Philippe de Champaigne (1631) and the ornate tomb of politician Jean-Baptiste Colbert (1619–83) are highlights. Don’t miss the naive sculpture in Chapelle St-Joseph which recalls Les Halles’ market days.

The final resting place of Napoleon Bonaparte is the beautiful Dôme Church in the Hôtel des Invalides complex – an elaborate monument to French Classical style. Built as the chapel for the resident soldiers of the Invalides, its ornate high altar is in stark contrast to the solemn marble chapels surrounding the crypt, which hold the tombs of French military leaders. Its golden dome can be seen for miles around (see Hôtel des Invalides).

This bistro, owned by Guy Savoy, offers creative cooking at affordable prices.

Superbly situated in the Richelieu wing of the Louvre (see Musée du Louvre), the café offers simple but expertly prepared brasserie fare (steaks, salads, salmon tartare, sandwiches) as well as delicious cakes and pastries. The dining room has plush decor and velvet armchairs, but the best spot is under the arcade overlooking the glass pyramid and the cour Napoléon.

This legendary watering hole opened in 1911 and many an ex-pat found inspiration here, including F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway and George Gershwin, who reportedly envisioned his An American in Paris orchestral work over a few drinks here. It still draws a lively American crowd, who come both for nostalgia and some of the best martini cocktails in town.

Rival to the neighbouring Flore as the rendezvous for the 20th-century intellectual élite. Hemingway, Oscar Wilde, Djuna Barnes, André Breton and Paul Verlaine were all regulars, and Picasso met his muse Dora Maar here in 1937. Similarly pricey, with outside tables facing the boulevard and the square.

One of the best bistros in Paris, with frogs’ legs, escargots and Châteaubriand.

One bistro looks much like another, but inside this one in the Chaillot Quarter is a different story. The food is superb, the service friendly, the atmosphere fun, the prices reasonable. For all of these reasons, it’s wise to book ahead. Try the red mullet Provençal, if available.

Artichoke and truffle soup is one of star chef Guy Savoy’s signature dishes, in his chic and smart restaurant (jacket and ties required for male diners). One of the city’s best dining experiences. To sample Savoy’s cooking at more affordable prices, also try the bistro-style Les Bookinistes in the St-Germain quarter.

The bargain five-course menu is fixed, except for your choice of dessert, so whatever the chef buys, you eat. Don’t be put off – the food is always superb and the candlelit atmosphere warmly relaxing.

Top chef Alain Dutournier prepares subtle dishes such as venison in an almond crust.

This beautiful 18th-century restaurant with two Michelin stars is hard to beat.

The fixed-price lunch menu is a bargain, offering the cuisine of superchefs Alain Ducasse and Joel Robuchon.

Ornate mirrored walls and gold decor complement a simple but quality menu.

A visit here is like stepping back into the jazz spots of Paris in the 1930–40s. It offers good, reasonably priced brasserie fare and live jazz on Friday and Satur- day.

Perfect spot for a romantic dinner with candles, flowers and relaxing music. The food is good too, with dishes such as leg of lamb.

Tucked away in the Bois de Boulogne is this high-class dining pavilion. Romantic setting and elegant service.

The haute cuisine menu here may break the bank but it’s worth it, especially the candied fennel with vanilla ice cream.

Among the best restaurants in the city. Chef Alain Passard produces exquisite food.

One of the city’s best dining experiences. Langoustine parcels with shellfish pastry is a signature dish.

Another star chef, Guy Savoy is experimental with his food. Sea bass grilled in sweet spices is an example.

The Left Bank may be the traditional home of jazz clubs but this wood-panelled, velvet-seated club is firmly on the Right Bank, in the Les Halles district (see Beaubourg and Les Halles). The poster-covered walls illustrate some of the “greats” who have played here, and the club’s policy is still to bring in the best overseas jazz artists to play alongside home-grown talent.

Don’t be fooled by its tourist-trap setting in the heart of the Latin Quarter – this venue is worth every penny of the entrance price. The building was once home to Knights Templar, and jazz has been played under the medieval vaults since 1947.

Printemp’s great rival store opened in 1894 and is a monument to Parisian style, topped by a glorious steel-and-glass dome. Along with designer clothes, there’s a fabulous food hall. The seventh floor has great views.

One of Paris’s two top department stores, Printemps opened in 1864. Its goods range from designer clothing and accessories, to middle-of-the-range labels and funky fashions, home decor and furniture. The sixth-floor tea room is crowned with a lovely Art Nouveau stained-glass cupola.

The king of Parisian épiceries (grocers). The mouth-watering window displays are works of art and tempt you inside for pastries, exotic fruits and some 20,000 other items.

A splendid belle époque tea salon that has been serving the best macaroons in Paris since 1862.