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Enjoy the rue de Rivoli location without paying the usual prices. This old hotel is slowly being renovated, so try to get one of the newer rooms with a view over the Tuileries opposite (see Jardin des Tuileries).

To stay on one of the Seine islands is a treat, and to do it in this hotel is a double treat. The bedrooms may be small, due to the building’s 17th-century origins, but the cheerful decor, the intimacy (only 17 rooms) and the hidden patio with its flowers and fountain more than compensate.

Indulge yourself in the food shops of the Rue de Buci (see Cacao et Chocolat), then indulge yourself back in this hotel – especially if you have booked the suite with a Jacuzzi from which there are great views of the Latin Quarter.

Prices reflect the luxury standards and location, close to the fashionable shops of St-Honoré, and near the Elysée palaces (see Champs-Elysées Quarter). Rooms are large and fitted out with antique furniture and marble bathrooms.

A place for atmosphere rather than gourmet cooking, but the food is still good and reliable in this basic wine bar, which is always full of noisy locals. Numerous wines are available by the glass or bottle, accompanied by cold meats, pâté, and other simple traditional meals.

The food is simple and filling (pepper steak, tarragon chicken and fish are traditional examples) but the real reason to come here is for the authentic period atmosphere. This early 20th-century workers’ canteen has retained its original, tightly packed tables set amid wood panelling and gilded mirrors. It’s always busy so come early to get a table. No reservations are taken, but the inevitable queues usually move quickly.

This legendary watering hole opened in 1911 and many an ex-pat found inspiration here, including F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway and George Gershwin, who reportedly envisioned his An American in Paris orchestral work over a few drinks here. It still draws a lively American crowd, who come both for nostalgia and some of the best martini cocktails in town.

Looking like any other Paris restaurant from the outside, inside the small room buzzes with noisy diners and tables must be booked ahead. Some of the best food in this price range, the menu is constantly changing but is always inventive. The home-baked bread is a delight, as is the dessert menu for those with a sweet tooth.

Artichoke and truffle soup is one of star chef Guy Savoy’s signature dishes, in his chic and smart restaurant (jacket and ties required for male diners). One of the city’s best dining experiences. To sample Savoy’s cooking at more affordable prices, also try the bistro-style Les Bookinistes in the St-Germain quarter.

Superbly situated in the Richelieu wing of the Louvre (see Musée du Louvre), the café offers simple but expertly prepared brasserie fare (steaks, salads, salmon tartare, sandwiches) as well as delicious cakes and pastries. The dining room has plush decor and velvet armchairs, but the best spot is under the arcade overlooking the glass pyramid and the cour Napoléon.

A grand Parisian café with prices to match, but it’s worth a visit to enjoy the frescoed walls and sumptuous surroundings, designed by Charles Garnier, architect of the Opera House across the square (see Tuileries and Opéra Quarters). This is another Paris landmark with a string of famous past patrons, and arguably the best millefeuille cakes in town.

A hang-out for artists and intellectuals since the 1920s, its regulars have included Salvador Dali and Albert Camus. During World War II Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir “more or less set up house in the Flore”. Although its prices have skyrocketed, its Art Deco decor hasn’t changed and it’s still a favourite with French filmmakers and literati.

This classy Bastille bar and restaurant has chic Chinese decor, as reflected in its name. The long ground-floor bar has romantically intimate tables and live jazz music is played at weekends. The upstairs bar is like an intimate drawing room. The cocktails are excellent, as is the Chinese food in the restaurant. Popular with Paris’s young and trendy.

There’s a great sense of history in this revered jazz club. It first opened its doors in 1947, since which time legends including Miles Davis and Billie Holiday have performed here. Today, however, it’s mostly local talent that you will see on stage. As well as music, there’s a relaxing bar and restaurant.

Don’t be fooled by its tourist-trap setting in the heart of the Latin Quarter – this venue is worth every penny of the entrance price. The building was once home to Knights Templar, and jazz has been played under the medieval vaults since 1947.

Paris reveres the art of photography probably more than any other city in the world and every alternate November (in even-numbered years) it hosts the “Month of the Photo”. Galleries, museums, shops, cultural centres and many other venues all give space to exhibitions, workshops and lectures on all aspects of the art. For anyone interested in photography, it is the most exciting time to visit Paris.

Classical music performances centred around the Bassin de Neptune Fountain at Versailles. This is one of the best ways to appreciate the beauty and grandeur of the gardens. Book ahead to avoid disappointment.

The original home of the Can-Can, the theatre’s dancers were immortalized on canvas by Toulouse-Lautrec during the belle époque and are on display in the Musée d’Orsay. The show still has all the razzmatazz, feathers and sequins that it has been dazzling audiences with since 1889. The pre-show dinner is optional.

Paris is home to jazz all year round (see Jazz Clubs), but every summer there is a major jazz festival in the city. Acts from all over the world come to play in the Parc Floral de Paris in the Bois de Vincennes, but there are many lesser venues involved as well.

Film buffs should be sure to verify the exact date of this annual event, held each June. For just one day, cinemagoers pay full price for the first film that they see, but can then see as many other films as they choose, for a few Euros each.

The haute couture houses of Paris launch their Summer Collections in January and their Winter Collections in July, when the eyes of the world fashion trade focus on the city. Major events take place in the Carrousel du Louvre, giving an indication of their status. Visit the fashion houses in person at least one month in advance to see if there are tickets available.

Home to the famous troupe of long-legged dancers, the Bluebell Girls, the fabulous special effects include aerial ballets and an on-stage skating rink. There are many who regard this dinner-cabaret as an essential Parisian experience.

This underground museum with its black walls, lighting effects and soundtrack features some of Dalí’s lesser-known works, including bronzes, lithographs and book illustrations.

Although the top of the Eiffel Tower can be seen above rooftops across the city, one of the best views of this Paris landmark is from the Seine. The Pont d’Iéna lies at the foot of the tower, bridging the river to link it to the Trocadéro Gardens. The tower, illuminated at night, is a highlight of a dinner cruise on the Seine.

Paris’s Natural History Museum in the Jardin des Plantes contains a fascinating collection of animal skeletons, plant fossils, minerals and gemstones. Its highlight is the magnificent Grande Galerie de l’volution, which depicts the varying interaction between man and nature during the evolution of the planet.

The prime exhibits here are eight of Monet’s huge waterlily canvases (see Blue Waterlilies) and the gallery, located in a corner of the Tuileries, has recently been renovated to provide an improved setting for their display. The Walter-Guillaume collection covers works by Renoir, Picasso, Modigliani and other modern masters from 1870–1930.

The Hôtel Dieu, now the hospital for central Paris, was built on the site of a foundling home in 1866–78; the original 12th-century building on the Ile de la Cité was demolished during the urban renewal schemes of the 19th century. A monument in the courtyard commemorates a courageous battle here in 1944 when Paris police held out against the German Nazis.

The most beautiful bridge in Paris is the Pont Alexandre III, a riot of Art Nouveau decoration including cherubs, wreaths, lamps and other elaborate statuary. Built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900, it leads to the Grand Palais and Petit Palais. There are wonderful views of the Invalides complex and the Champs-Elysées from the bridge.

A splendid belle époque tea salon that has been serving the best macaroons in Paris since 1862.

The artist Picasso reputedly did his shopping at this daily morning market in the heart of St-Germain. The huge fruit and vegetable stalls are of high quality but of greater interest are the food shops opening on to the street, which sell specialist and regional fare. You can also buy prepared Italian dishes and delicious pastries.

Away from the tourist bustle, this Bastille market, dubbed the “Notre-Dame of markets”, retains an authentic Parisian atmosphere. Every morning North African traders hawk inexpensive produce in the open-air market, and there’s an adjacent flea market and a covered market selling top-quality fare.

Dating from 1808, the colourful Marché aux Fleurs (flower market) on the Ile de la Cité is the oldest and one of the largest flower markets in Paris. Its blooms brighten up the area between the stark walls of the Conciergerie and Hôtel Dieu from Monday to Saturday – everything from orchids to orange trees. On Sundays it is joined by the Marché aux Oiseaux (bird market) with equally colourful, caged species.

The green stalls of the booksellers (bouquinistes ) on the quays of the Left Bank are a Parisian landmark. Pore over the posters, old postcards, magazines, hardbacks, paperbacks, comics and sheet music.

A stylish shop that sells French-designed jewellery along with all manner of other tastefully made items including pens, photograph frames and a range of stationery.

This tiny shop packs in a great array of gourmet delights, from orange sauce to speciality vinegars and mustards, to chocolate “snails”, all prettily packaged.

Beautiful bookshop, though the content is on the serious side, concentrating on art, philosophy and politics.

Chanel classics, from the braided tweed jackets to two-toned shoes as well as Lagerfeld’s more daring designs, are displayed in this branch of the main rue Cambon store.

Paris’s oldest theatre was founded in 1680 and is still the only one to have its own repertory of actors, staging both classical and modern drama (in French) from Molière to Tom Stoppard. The current building dates from the 18th century. Around the corner from the main box office, a special window opens 45 minutes before curtain-up, selling reduced price tickets for under-27s and concessions.

Jazz, blues, Latin and African music are the mainstays at this tiny cellar club, which is low on space but high on volume. The Baiser was promoting World Music long before the phrase had been invented, and the eclectic approach has led to a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. It’s cheaper than many clubs, too.