This area of the left bank is possibly the most stimulating in Paris. St-Germain-des-Prés, centred around the city’s oldest church, is a synonym for Paris’s café society, made famous by the writers and intellectuals who held court here in the first half of the 20th century. Although it’s more touristy today, a stroll around the back streets reveals lovely old houses plastered with plaques noting famous residents. The Latin Quarter takes its name from the Latin spoken by students of the Sorbonne until the Revolution. The scholastic centre of Paris for more than 700 years, it continues to buzz with student bookshops, cafés and jazz clubs. It was also the site of a Roman settlement and remains from that era can be seen in the Musée du Moyen-Age. The area’s western boundary is the bustling boulevard Saint-Michel and to the south is the tranquil greenery of the Luxembourg Quarter.
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Morning
This area is as much about atmosphere as sightseeing, so take time to soak up some of that Left Bank feeling. Begin on the Quai de la Tournelle, strolling by the booksellers here and on the adjacent Quai de Montebello. As well as admiring the views of Notre-Dame, you might find an unusual souvenir.
From here head south down any street away from the river and you will meet the busy boulevard St- Germain. Turn right in the direction of two famous cafés, the Flore and the Deux Magots, and stop for a break in either of them (see p125) amid the locals talking the morning away.
Cut your way south to the rue de Grenelle and the Musée Maillol, a delightful lesser-known museum. Then enjoy lunch at L’Oeillade (10 rue St-Simon 01 42 22 01 60), a bistro full of Gallic atmosphere.
Afternoon
The later you reach the Musée d’Orsay the less crowded it will be. Spend an hour or two exploring the collection. By far the most popular displays are the Impressionists on the upper level.
After admiring the art, enjoy tea and a cake at Christian Constant , one of the best chocolatemakers in Paris. It’s the ideal place for a special present or just a piece of self-indulgence for yourself.
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Specialist in comic books, which are big business in France, from Tintin to erotica.
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A stylish brasserie with a mix of French, Asian and British food.
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One of the best bistros in Paris, with frogs’ legs, escargots and Châteaubriand.
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Archetypal Left Bank bistro. Blanquette (veal in cream) is one house speciality.
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Cheese fans should not miss this shop, selling cheese from all over France, with a chance to taste before you buy.
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Wonderful patisserie, with an especially good line in small fruit tarts, such as lemon and strawberry. Fat-free cheesecake for the health-conscious, too.
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This famous Left Bank boulevard runs for more than 3 km (2 miles) anchored by the bridges of the Seine at either end. At its heart is the church of St-Germain-des-Prés, established in 542, although the present church dates from the 11th century. Beyond the famous cafés, Flore and Les Deux Magots (see Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots), the boulevard runs west past art galleries, bookshops and designer boutiques to the Pont de la Concorde. To the east, it cuts across the Latin Quarter through the pleasant street market in the place Maubert, to join the Pont de Sully which connects to the Ile St-Louis (see Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis).
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The main drag of the Latin Quarter was created in the late 1860s as part of Baron Haussmann’s city-wide makeover (see The Second Empire), and named after a chapel that once stood near its northern end. It’s now lined with a lively mix of cafés, clothes shops and cheap restaurants. Branching off to the east are rues de la Harpe and de la Huchette, which date back to medieval times. The latter is an enclave of the city’s Greek community, with many souvlaki stands and Greek restaurants. In the place St-Michel is a huge bronze fountain that depicts St Michael killing a dragon.
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The green stalls of the booksellers (bouquinistes ) on the quays of the Left Bank are a Parisian landmark. Pore over the posters, old postcards, magazines, hardbacks, paperbacks, comics and sheet music.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and charges included.
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