This area of the left bank is possibly the most stimulating in Paris. St-Germain-des-Prés, centred around the city’s oldest church, is a synonym for Paris’s café society, made famous by the writers and intellectuals who held court here in the first half of the 20th century. Although it’s more touristy today, a stroll around the back streets reveals lovely old houses plastered with plaques noting famous residents. The Latin Quarter takes its name from the Latin spoken by students of the Sorbonne until the Revolution. The scholastic centre of Paris for more than 700 years, it continues to buzz with student bookshops, cafés and jazz clubs. It was also the site of a Roman settlement and remains from that era can be seen in the Musée du Moyen-Age. The area’s western boundary is the bustling boulevard Saint-Michel and to the south is the tranquil greenery of the Luxembourg Quarter.
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Opened in 1927, this former coal depot was transformed by artists into a lavish, Art Deco brasserie. It attracted such luminaries as Louis Aragon and François Sagan.
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This splendid wine shop is based in a late 19th-century dairy, worth seeing in its own right. The owners will happily advise you on good bargains and vintage wines.
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One for the beer lovers, with a dozen or so ales available on tap, including many Belgian brews, and another 100–150 by the bottle. Belgian-biased food as well.
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Landmark literary hangout. Good collections on art, photography and literature.
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This café has been patronized by the likes of Henry Miller Apollinaire and Jacques Prévert.
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Paris’s world-famous university was founded in 1253 and was originally intended as a theology college for poor students but it soon became the country’s main centre for theological studies. It was named after Robert de Sorbon, confessor to Louis IX. Philosophers Thomas Aquinas (c.1226–74) and Roger Bacon (1214–92) taught here; Italian poet Dante (1265–1321), St Ignatius Loyola (1491–1556), the founder of the Jesuits, and church reformer John Calvin (1509–64) are among its impressive list of alumni. Its tradition for conservatism led to its closure during the Revolution (it was re-opened by Napoleon in 1806) and to the student riots of 1968 (see Top 10 Events in the French Revolution).
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This two-star Michelin restaurant has views of Notre-Dame and duck à l’orange as the speciality.
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Classic French cuisine including fabulous desserts.
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Incredibly lively bar, aimed at people who like to talk, smoke and drink. Happy hour 6–9pm.
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On a quiet backstreet, this shabby-chic bar plays host to thirsty local nighthawks as well as trendier partygoers on latenight cocktails.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and charges included.
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