These two quarters were once the province of the rich and the royal. Adjoining the Tuileries Gardens is the largest museum in the world, the Louvre, while the grand opera house gives the second quarter its name. The Place de la Concorde is one of the most historic sites in the city.
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Morning
Visiting the Louvre (see Musée du Louvre) takes planning, and you should get there at least 15 minutes before opening time. Spend the whole morning in the museum, and pick up a map as you enter so that you can be sure to see the main highlights. Do bear in mind that two shorter visits are much easier than one. Have a morning coffee in the Café Marly in the museum.
From the Louvre, either visit the Carrousel du Louvre's underground shops or walk along rue de Rivoli towards place de la Concorde . This end of the street is now filled with souvenir shops but avoid the overpriced cafés and turn right to rue Mondavi for a good lunch at Lescure, a little rustic bistro (7 rue de Mondovi 01 42 60 18 91 ).
Afternoon
After being indoors all morning at the Louvre, get some fresh air in the Jardin des Tuileries then walk down to place de la Madeleine to spend the afternoon browsing and shopping in its many excellent food stores. This will definitely work up an appetite, so take tea in the restaurant of one of the best shops, Hédiard .
If you are on a budget however, reverse this itinerary, as admission to the Louvre is much cheaper after 3pm, even on Wednesday when late-night opening means you could still spend more than six hours exploring the collection.
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Chef Gilles Choukroun’s iconoclastic approach comes off a treat here in dishes such as foisgras crème brulée.
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Vintage wines are the speciality at this store. The owner will help you find a wine to match the year of any special occasion.
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This tea shop offers some 200 varieties from all over the world, as well as wacky teapots.
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The retail outlet for one of France’s finest mustard-makers. Try flavoured mustards such as Cognac or champagne. There are also lovely ceramic condiment jars.
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The peak of indulgence. Caviars from around the world, plus smoked eels, salmon and other fishy fare.
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Waiters race back and forth serving simple soups, meat and fish dishes. No bookings
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The king of Parisian épiceries (grocers). The mouth-watering window displays are works of art and tempt you inside for pastries, exotic fruits and some 20,000 other items.
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Founded in 1854, this world food emporium features a cornucopia of fruits and vegetables, exotic spices and oils and a host of other gourmet delights.
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Italian specialities, such as veal with sage and strawberry soup, are served on a lovely patio in summer
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and charges included.
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