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Alchemists tended to live on credit in houses in town.

A straightforward approach to cocktails, as the name suggests. The superior circulation system, which is a novelty in Prague, filters the ubiquitous cigarette smoke from the atmosphere. DJs play classic rock and Motown tracks and the kitchen serves small plates of snacks for the peckish until 3am.

Seafood is the speciality at the Radisson’s new restaurant, but the chef is happy to prepare almost any dish. Just ask him as he makes the rounds of this minute Art Deco lounge. If the dining room is full, try La Rotonde across the foyer. After dinner, you can enjoy cocktails and live jazz in the Bebop bar.

A relative newcomer to the local dining scene, Alizée serves French dishes with a few Asian accents. Excellent wine list. The adjoining brasserie offers a more casual atmosphere.

The Four Seasons’ restaurant is the toast of the town even with other top restaurateurs. Expect highly attentive service and fine, authentic Italian cuisine by Milanese chef Vito Mollica.

What don’t they sell? Alma Mahler Antique is a bazaar stocked with Persian rugs, jewellery, Meissen porcelain, crystal and nesting dolls. One of the largest antiques dealers in Prague.

As a drunken Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Tom Hulce staggered through Malá Strana’s narrow Thunovská alley in Miloš Forman’s Academy Award-winning 1984 interpretation of Peter Shaffer’s successful play. Prague was a well chosen location for the film, since Mozart’s Don Giovanni debuted at the Estates Theatre (see Stavovské divadlo), and Praguers are intensely proud of the association.

Steaks, salads, ribs and other American dishes keep tables full – reservations a must. The menu changes regularly, but they’ll never part with the chocolate fondue.

Around the corner from the US Embassy is a shop specializing in restoration and sales of historical stoves. Great news if you want to export Malá Strana’s coal-scented atmosphere home with you.