At the geographical heart of Europe, Prague’s beautiful cityscape has been carved and sustained by a variety of emperors, artists and religious communities, from the Gothic exuberance of its castle and cathedral, to the dignity of the medieval Jewish Cemetery, and the 19th-century opulence of the “new” town. Under Communist rule, Prague was off the tourist map, but since 1989 the city has seen a surge of visitors eager to take in this spectacular city.
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The granddaddy of Prague’s clubs, the cavernous Lucerna hosts live jazz as well as rock and dance parties, including the ever popular Eighties night.
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Local “big-beat” acts are the mainstay at this Wenceslas Square music bar, but it occasionally hosts big names in jazz such as Maceo Parker, as well as where-are-they-now relics. (A separate adjoining venue, the Velký sál, or large hall, hosts bigger acts such as Wynton Marsalis.) The club’s 1980s night is one of the biggest dance parties in town.
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The rooftop dining room affords incomparable views of St Vitus; the beer-hall serves a sublime suckling pig.
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This “secret lounge” in the Old Town is perfectly suited to trendy kids in the know. It is open nightly, and the varied musical offers reflect the social mix.
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This little Pakistani eatery offers better value than the Indian restaurants in the centre. Close to the No. 9 tram stop, it’s not as remote as it appears.
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Rudolf II gave Mordecai Maisel permission to build his private synagogue here in the late 16th century, in gratitude for the Jewish mayor’s financial help in Bohemia’s war against the Turks. At the time of its construction it was the largest synagogue in Prague, until fire destroyed it and much of the ghetto in 1869. It was later rebuilt in Neo-Gothic style. Inside is a wonderful collection of Jewish silverwork and other items such as candlesticks and ceramics, much of it looted by the Nazis from other synagogues across Bohemia. Ironically, the Third Reich planned to build a museum in Prague, dedicated to the Jews as an “extinct race”.
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Good pub food. If cigarette smoke bothers you, look elsewhere.
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The hectic traffic that now detracts from the beauty of Malá Strana’s main square seems historically fitting – in the past it has been witness to innumerable destructive fires, revolutions, including the 1618 defenestration (see Prague’s Third Defenestration), and executions during the days when a gallows stood here. St Nicholas’s Church and the adjoining Jesuit college dominate the centre of the square, while lovely Neo-Classical palace arcades and restaurants line the perimeter. One of the most important buildings is the Směmovna palace, once the headquarters of the National Assembly, and now home to the Chamber of Deputies.
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The Knights of Malta once had an autonomous settlement here, and the square still bears their name. The area is dominated by beautiful Baroque palaces, and the 12th-century Church of Our Lady Below the Chain – so called for the Marian portrait inside that hangs beneath chains from the Judith Bridge, the precursor to Charles Bridge.
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The “Little Buddha” serves a wide range of potent teas and Vietnamese food. No smoking.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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