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Over the centuries, this now placid square at the heart of the city has witnessed hundreds of executions, political capitulations and, more recently of course, riotous ice hockey celebrations, a sport about which Czechs are fanatical. Today, the action is more likely to come from the crowds of tourists and Praguers, enjoying a coffee or a beer at one of the numerous pavement cafés. Dominated by the splendid Church of Our Lady before Týn, the square is always buzzing; in winter and summer, it’s a wonderful place to watch the world go by.

Prague’s central square has been a market since the Middle Ages, and was witness to the rise and fall of numerous regimes and no shortage of bloodshed. The city has few charms finer than watching the moon rise between the towers of the Church of Our Lady Before Týn.

Prague’s Orthdox Jewish community still holds services in this 700-year-old synagogue – the oldest in Europe. The building’s curious name may come from the Hebrew Al-Tenai , meaning “with reservation”. Legend has it that its stones will eventually have to be returned to Jerusalem, from whence they came (see Features in the Old-New Synagogue).

Attached to the Old Jewish Cemetery, Europe’s oldest surviving synagogue has witnessed a turbulent history, including pogroms and fire, and has often been a place of refuge for the city’s beleaguered Jewish community. Its name derives from the fact that another synagogue was built after this one, taking the title “new”, but this was later destroyed. It is still the religious centre for Prague’s small, present-day Jewish community (see Features in the Old-New Synagogue).

Plague victims were interred here when the site was still far from the city. Notable residents include Jan Palach, a student who burned himself alive in protest at the 1968 Warsaw-Pact invasion.

Prague’s best Greek food. The large garden, complete with table tennis, is ideal for summer dining. The mixed salad platter is the best value around.

Rumour has it that a thief sought to steal jewels from a statue of the Madonna in the Church of St James), but the stony Virgin seized him by the arm and local butchers had to cut him loose. According to some, he still haunts the church asking visitors to help him fetch his arm, which hangs from the wall inside.

The Czech love of operetta knows no limits, except perhaps the number of performers willing to take part in the latest rock opera at locations around town. It began with Romany and Juliette , proceeded to Dracula and is still going strong with a romping Monte Cristo . Check The Prague Post for performance times (see The Prague Post).

The gallery of the Austrian Cultural Institute highlights the shared cultural heritage of Prague and Vienna. Shows have included retrospectives of Oskar Kokoschka and Gustav Klimt.