DK Travel : Prague

At the geographical heart of Europe, Prague’s beautiful cityscape has been carved and sustained by a variety of emperors, artists and religious communities, from the Gothic exuberance of its castle and cathedral, to the dignity of the medieval Jewish Cemetery, and the 19th-century opulence of the “new” town. Under Communist rule, Prague was off the tourist map, but since 1989 the city has seen a surge of visitors eager to take in this spectacular city.

The White Swan

Prague houses weren’t given identifying numbers until 1770. Empress Maria Theresa was a great one for bringing the famed Habsburg trait of orderliness from Vienna to the banks of the Vltava. Before that, homes were known and located by a charming but confusing system of allegorical symbols. Although you can still find such emblematic addresses throughout the older parts of the city, Nerudova street in Malá Strana (see Nerudova) has the highest concentration of house signs in the city. Originally many of them had alchemical significance, although today much of their meaning has been lost. The White Swan is one of these, and probably originated as a golden goose (not to be confused with the downtown department store of the same name, Bílá Labut’).
There’s Only One Bud

The town of České Budě-jovice (Budweis in German) was producing beer before the US brewer, but didn’t register copyright on the name.
Three Afternoons in Greater Prague

Afternoon One

See Vyšehrad late in the day, but only if the weather looks promising. Take the metro to the Vyšehrad stop at the Congress Centre, from which you have marvellous views of Prague’s spires. Walk west along Na Bučance and enter the fortifications through the Tábor Gate . Once inside the walls, you’ll find historic constructions, such as the Romanesque St Martin’s Rotunda (see Rotunda of St Martin), everywhere you turn. Enjoy the park at your leisure but get to the westernmost edge of the compound atop Vyšehrad’s rocky out-crop in time for a sunset.

Afternoon Two

Žižkov and Vinohrady are also best seen in the second half of the day. From Florenc metro, climb to the Monument of National Liberation for a wonderful view, then compare it to the one you get from the Žižkov TV Tower. Stroll as far into Vinohrady as your feet will permit you, but save your strength: you’ll need it for a night of pubbing and clubbing.

Afternoon Three

Energetic walkers can see Stromovka and Troja in a half-day. Take the tram to Výstavište among the trees of the former game park before crossing the Vltava to the Troja Château . From there, you’re within easy walking distance of the zoo. Take the bus back to the metro at Nádraží Holešovice.
Thun-Hohenstein Palace

The Kolowrat family’s heraldic eagles support the portal of this palace. Built by Giovanni Santini-Aichel in 1726, the building is now the Italian Embassy.
Tom Tom Club

A relaxed café and cocktail bar. Good drinks, coffees and beer on tap in a Mediterranean setting. And if you get the urge to dance, Roxy is across the street.
Tosca

Under the southern arcade of the Toskánský Palace is a gracious pizzeria and Italian café where you can break the dumpling habit. The building is the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, after all.
Travellers’ Hostel

This company has more than 10 years’ experience hosting wanderers in a network of hostels. This Old Town hostel is above the Roxy nightclub, but keep your carousing to a minimum, as you share the building with anxious neighbours. Other locations around town are open during the summer.
Tretter’s

This is Prague’s – and perhaps Europe’s – best cocktail bar. It may look like a Jazz-Age time capsule, but Tretter’s is actually a relative newcomer, and highly welcome at that. You’ll find no bottle juggling, just serious mixology, very dry martinis and, if you’re lucky, a seat. Open until 3am.
Troja

The riverside gardens and chateau of Troja are an excellent destination for a day trip out of the city. Cross the Vltava from Stromovka, take in the château’s beautiful garden and art collection (see Troja Château), the Baroque chapel of St Clare and the zoological gardens. There is a bus from here that will take you back to the centre.
Troja Château

Jean-Baptiste Mathey created Count Sternberg’s 17th-century palace when Classical Italian was all the architectural rage. Inside is a collection of 19th-century Czech art.

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Hotel price categories

For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
- under Kč1,500
- Kč1,500–Kč3,000
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- Kč4,500–Kč6,000
- over Kč6,000