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Prague houses weren’t given identifying numbers until 1770. Empress Maria Theresa was a great one for bringing the famed Habsburg trait of orderliness from Vienna to the banks of the Vltava. Before that, homes were known and located by a charming but confusing system of allegorical symbols. Although you can still find such emblematic addresses throughout the older parts of the city, Nerudova street in Malá Strana (see Nerudova) has the highest concentration of house signs in the city. Originally many of them had alchemical significance, although today much of their meaning has been lost. The White Swan is one of these, and probably originated as a golden goose (not to be confused with the downtown department store of the same name, Bílá Labut’).

The Kolowrat family’s heraldic eagles support the portal of this palace. Built by Giovanni Santini-Aichel in 1726, the building is now the Italian Embassy.

The riverside gardens and chateau of Troja are an excellent destination for a day trip out of the city. Cross the Vltava from Stromovka, take in the château’s beautiful garden and art collection (see Troja Château), the Baroque chapel of St Clare and the zoological gardens. There is a bus from here that will take you back to the centre.

Astronomer at Rudolph’s court, Brahe (1546–1601) suffered a burst bladder when he refused to leave the emperor’s side at a banquet.

Also known as Týn Courtyard, this was a fortified merchants settlement in the 11th century. The Baroque and Renaissance houses were completely renovated in the early 1990s, creating what is now one of the Old Town’s most charming mercantile centres.

The Czech president was known as a playwright before he became a civil rights activist protesting the Warsaw Pact invasion in 1968 (see Prague Spring). His absurdist works and his fame helped draw international attention to his country’s struggles.

After 10 days of mass protests in 1989, the Communist government bowed to the population’s indignation. Czechs proudly recall that not a window was broken during the revolt.

Smetana’s My Country are six tone poems celebrating Bohemia. The second follows the river’s course.

Malá Strana has many green pockets, but Vojan’s gardens top them all for their romantic charm. Tulip beds, flowering fruit trees and the occasional peacock add to the fairytale atmosphere (see Vojanovy Sady).