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Prague : Places of interest

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  • Over the centuries, this now placid square at the heart of the city has witnessed hundreds of executions, political capitulations and, more recently of course, riotous ice hockey celebrations, a sport about which Czechs are fanatical. Today, the action is more likely to come from the crowds of tourists and Praguers, enjoying a coffee or a beer at one of the numerous pavement cafés. Dominated by the splendid Church of Our Lady before Týn, the square is always buzzing; in winter and summer, it’s a wonderful place to watch the world go by.

  • Palackého náměstí

    The riverside square is named for the 19th-century historian František Palacký, whose work was integral to the National Revival. Stanislav Sucharda’s sweeping monument to him stands at the plaza’s northern end, while the modern steeples of the Emaus Monastery rise from the eastern edge. The church grounds are also known as the Slavonic Monastery, named after the liturgy the resident Balkan Benedictines used (see Emaus Devil). Sadly, American bombs demolished the monastery’s original Baroque steeples on St Valentine’s Day 1945, as part of the Allies’ World War II military campaign.

  • Petřín Hill

    A more than welcome respite from the tiny, generally crowded streets in the city below is Prague’s sprawling park, looking down over spires and rooftops. Enjoy the views all the way up the hill by taking the funicular train.

  • In the 15th century, King Vladislav II laid the corner-stone for this tower at the city’s eastern gate, intended to complement the Royal Court nearby. Used to store gunpowder in the 17th century, hence the name, the tower was damaged during attacks by Prussian forces in 1757. The Neo-Gothic façade seen today, with its sculptural decoration, dates from 1876.

  • Puppetry is a long-standing Czech tradition, and late afternoon shows will keep kids entertained for up to an hour. There’s enough action that younger folk usually don’t mind not understanding the libretto or narration. Weekend presentations of well known fairy tales at the National Marionette Theatre can fill up quickly, so book in advance (see Národní divadlo marionet).

  • Smíchov

    Today, modern shopping centres and multiplex cinemas have taken over what used to be the city’s main industrial centre. At the heart of the district is Anděl metro station, which still bears traces of its Communist origins – the station was originally named “Moscow” and was decorated with Soviet murals (see Anděl Metro).

  • Jesuits constructed this stunning example of Baroque architecture in the early 18th century, on the site of a former Gothic church. It was designed by the acclaimed Baroque architects, father and son Christoph and Kilian Dientzenhofer, while other prominent artists adorned the interior with exquisite carvings, statues and frescoes. Visitors can see examples of the interior’s painstaking reconstruction which took place in the 1950s, and enjoy spectacular views from the clock tower (see Church of St Nicholas).

  • King Otakar established the royal game park here in the 13th century; it’s been a public garden since 1804 (stromovka means “place of trees”). Stroll, skate or simply enjoy the ancient trees by day and visit the planetarium by night. The fish ponds were a creation of Rudolf II – the emperor drilled a tunnel under Letná to bring in water to supply them.

  • Grab a bag of breadcrumbs and head to the riverbank. Střelecký Ostrov is an ideal spot to watch these graceful white birds dip their necks in the water to catch the morsels for children’s delight. Take care that little feet don’t go into the water and mud, however, and make sure that fingers don’t inadvertently get snapped in the feeding frenzy. Good for all seasons.

  • An expatriate institution, the English-language Globe moved here from its original home in 2000, leaving backpackers with outdated guidebooks stranded in Holešovice. The café is attracting a local following. Chances are the people at the next table are eager to talk to you about their travels, for better or worse.

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