It is impossible to date precisely the jews’ arrival in prague, but historical sources mention the destruction of a Jewish settlement on the Vltava’s left bank in the 13th century. For the next 500 years, Prague’s Jews were obliged to live in a walled community where the Josefov quarter is today, working, studying and worshipping in the confines of the ghetto. So restricted was their allotted space that they were obliged to bury their dead layer upon layer in the Old Jewish Cemetery. When Emperor Josef II removed these strictures, many Jews left the ghetto, which became a slum occupied by the city’s poorest residents. The quarter was razed in the late 19th century, making way for avenues such as Pařížská with its fine Art Nouveau houses. During World War II, the synagogues stored valuables looted from Jewish communities across the Reich – nearly 80,000 Czech and Moravian Jews perished in the Holocaust (see The Jews in Prague).
Much of this area suffered from flooding in 2002 and reconstruction work may affect some of the sights normally open to visitors. The Old Jewish Cemetery, Ceremonial Hall, Maisel, Pinkas, Spanish and Klausen synagogues comprise the Jewish Museum in Prague-
Morning
A sobering place to start the day, to appreciate how large the Czech Jewish community once was, is the Pinkas Synagogue, where Holocaust victims are listed by their home village and name. Then take a stroll through the adjoining Old Jewish Cemetery , where a guide will help you find significant grave-sites. To lighten the mood, proceed to the Klausen Synagogue on the right, with its exhibits on Jewish festivals and family life.
At the end of U Starého hřbitova is the Old-New Synagogue (see Features in the Old-New Synagogue). where you’ll find treasures like Rabbi Loew’s seat. Exiting, note the Jewish Town Hall next door with its Hebrew clock. Just a few feet away, treat yourself to lunch at Pravda .
Afternoon
After lunch, meander among the antiques shops en route to the Maisel Synagogue, where you’ll find the first part of an exhibit on Jewish settlement in Bohemia and Moravia – it continues at the Spanish Synagogue.
Refresh yourself at Bakeshop Praha around the corner before ending your tour at St Agnes’s Convent with its exhibits of Czech medieval art.
A truly Josefov-style evening involves a kosher dinner at King Solomon and a concert of sacred music at the Spanish Synagogue.
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A relative newcomer to the local dining scene, Alizée serves French dishes with a few Asian accents. Excellent wine list. The adjoining brasserie offers a more casual atmosphere.
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What don’t they sell? Alma Mahler Antique is a bazaar stocked with Persian rugs, jewellery, Meissen porcelain, crystal and nesting dolls. One of the largest antiques dealers in Prague.
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This serious collector’s shop specializes in prints and small decorative items such as clocks and lamps. If you don’t find what you’re looking for, just ask and they’ll point you in the right direction.
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Grab a bag of rugalach , brownies or other mouth-watering treats for on-the-go nourishment, or lunch on an egg-salad sandwich and coffee. Salads and quiches also to take away.
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The Russian spirit of this eatery hits you like a shot of one their dizzying selection of vodkas. Sit down to blinis, borscht and other Eastern European soul food.
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Dark wooden fixtures and black-tie service give this café a distinguished, Old World atmosphere. Take time out from sightseeing for a good café Vienna and apple strudel.
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Built in the early 1900s in mock Romanesque fashion, the Ceremonial Hall was home to the Jewish community’s Burial Society. The exhibits inside detail the complex Jewish rituals for preparing the dead for the grave.
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Constructed along with the town hall with funds from Mordecai Maisel, the High Synagogue was built in elegant Renaissance fashion. Subsequent reconstructions updated the exterior, but the interior retains its original stucco vaults. Inside there are also impressive Torah scrolls and mantles.
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Art lovers should peruse this small gallery’s sale exhibition of local art. The original oils and sketches capture Josefov’s bittersweet warmth and humanity.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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