Malá strana, now known as the “little quarter”, was originally called the New Town, a century before Charles IV moved that name across the river (see New Town). Floods, fires and war kept construction busy on the Vltava’s left bank; few of the original Romanesque and Gothic buildings remain. During the Habsburgs’ reign, grand palaces were built in Baroque style, but these went to ruin when the nobility left; modern developers are attempting to restore them. Today, the area is an enclave of parks, cafés, winding streets and unassuming churches.
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Morning
You can approach the Little Quarter from the Old Town as royal processions once did, by crossing Charles Bridge , or you can save your energy for the day ahead, and start from the top of the hill and walk down. Get to Nerudova from one of the many side streets leading from Hradčany and stroll down, window shopping at the many craft outlets on your way. Don’t worry if you stray off the beaten path; as long as you continue downhill, you’ll end up at the area’s central hub, Malostranské náměstí. Here, spend at least an hour savouring one of the city’s most spectacular buildings, St Nicholas’s Church.
Pause for lunch, either at one of the many cheap cafés on Malostranské náměstí or splash out at Circle Line .
Afternoon
After lunch, take Tomášská and Valdštejnská around to the Wallenstein Garden . Tip-toe through the tulips at Vojanovy sady and continue down U lužického semináře under Charles Bridge and onto Kampa Island.
After coffee at Café Belaria , check the writing on the John Lennon Wall before wrapping up at the Church of Our Lady Victorious.
In the evening, catch a recital at St Nicholas’s Church or dance the night away with the young crowd at Jo’s Garáž .
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Around the corner from the US Embassy is a shop specializing in restoration and sales of historical stoves. Great news if you want to export Malá Strana’s coal-scented atmosphere home with you.
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The salads, waffles and crêpes served here make an excellent light lunch, but you’ll have trouble finding a seat in the evening.
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It’s hard to believe now, but Prague had no bagels until American entrepreneurs opened this shop here in 1997, serving fresh-baked bagels, sandwiches and endless cups of coffee. Open late.
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This pink stucco palace and the John Lennon Wall are separated by only a few steps, but they are miles apart aesthetically. However, the French Ambassador helped preserve the graffiti opposite his offices in the 1980s.
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This Kampa Island café serves good beer and coffee at a fraction of the price found on the other side of the block.
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The stairway leading to this café’s riverside patio is so narrow it needs its own traffic lights. They say President Václav Havel took Pink Floyd here for beer.
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The best Mexican food in Prague. The fajitas are great; try the chicken and banana variety. Book ahead.
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This gallery sells replicas of all sorts of 14th- to 17th-century items. You can even watch as they make them, while sipping a drink brought to you by a maid in Baroque costume.
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For almost all visitors to Prague, this spectacular Gothic bridge, crossing the Vltava from the Old Town to the castle complex, remains their most memorable image of the city, long after they have returned home.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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