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It’s hard to believe now, but Prague had no bagels until American entrepreneurs opened this shop here in 1997, serving fresh-baked bagels, sandwiches and endless cups of coffee. Open late.

This Kampa Island café serves good beer and coffee at a fraction of the price found on the other side of the block.

Serving imported teas, sandwiches and salads, “At the Green Tea” offers a welcome change from the ubiquitous beer and fried food.

The stairway leading to this café’s riverside patio is so narrow it needs its own traffic lights. They say President Václav Havel took Pink Floyd here for beer.

The salads, waffles and crêpes served here make an excellent light lunch, but you’ll have trouble finding a seat in the evening.

You might think the regulars at this pub on Malá Strana’s main drag would be used to tourists by now, but don’t be surprised if every face turns to meet you. Serves excellent Pilsner.

With its threadbare furniture and oil lamps on every table, this café is made for rainy nights. In chilly weather, try their excellent mulled wine.

The cold Budvar served here is the best. If they’re serving homemade sausage, don’t miss it.

This tiny wine cellar sells excellent imported and domestic wines. If the tables out front are full, take your bottle to Petřín Hill.

St Nick’s is the expat bar of choice in Malá Strana. From the corner table in the back, you can hear absinthe-induced whispers bouncing off the vaulted ceiling.