Founded in 1348, New Town (Nové Město ) is hardly new. Charles IV’s urban development scheme imposed straight avenues on the settlements springing up outside the old city walls and added a fifth town to the constellation of Vyšehrad, Hradčany, Old Town and Malá Strana. Unlike the Old Town, New Town was a planned grid of streets and markets. The horse market became Wenceslas Square in the 19th century; the 14th-century cattle market, and Europe’s largest square, took on Charles’s name, becoming Karlovo Náměstí. The hay market, Senovážné náměstí, kept its title until the Communists changed it for a time to honour the Russian novelist Maxim Gorky. Since the Velvet Revolution was played out on Národní and Wenceslas Square, these and surrounding streets have been filled with exciting enterprises.
Although some locals still call Senovážné náměstí “Gorkáč”, it has returned to its old name on maps.-
Morning
Start your day with breakfast at Break Café , then head to Wenceslas Square to begin the day’s sightseeing. A quick peep inside the National Museum will probably suffice unless it’s raining or you’re a big fan of natural history. From there, proceed to St Wenceslas’s statue and the monument to Communism’s victims, where you can pay tribute to the nation’s growing pains.
Get in a bit of retail therapy along the square as you walk up to Můstek, then visit the Museum of Communism , ironically located above McDonald’s and a casino.
Take the metro to Národnítřída, and linger over a book or newspaper at the Globe for a leisurely lunch.
Afternoon
After lunch, head up to the National Theatre and then follow the Vltava’s Right Bank upstream to Jiráskovo náměstí. Modern-art buffs should take in Galerie Mánes on the way. Follow Resslova up the hill to the Church of Sts Cyril and Methodius and its monument to Czechoslovak resistance fighters.
In the evening, take in a performance at the National Theatre– Vas-y Vas-y is the obvious choice for dinner, before or after. If you still have the energy, head to Radost to dance the night away or to U Havrana for a local, smoky atmosphere.
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The wooden door looks a bit suspect, but inside is a welcoming beer-and-a-shot neighbour-hood bar. A good place to practise the intricate rituals of absinthe drinking.
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Close to 100 billiard, pool and snooker tables, plus four lanes of bowling and two table-tennis sets. Don’t go on Friday or Saturday without making a reservation first. The bar serves drinks, but no food.
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You would think drinking and rock climbing would be mutually exclusive activities, but you can do both at this bar and climbing gym. The student crowd is interested primarily in the alcohol.
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Only a handful of tables in this tiny French bistro, meaning attentive service and well-crafted dishes. Book ahead.
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From breakfast of ham and eggs to a late dinner of moules provençale , this smart café offers something for every taste.
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More Tex than Mex, Buffalo Bill’s is a friendly saloon featuring good food, country music and accommodating staff. Colouring-book placemats and specials for children.
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Franz Kafka, Max Brod and their writer friends used to hold court here. It’s a bright, cheerful place, good for conversation and a bite to eat. At the back is Prague’s classiest pool hall.
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This sleek theatre bar fills quickly during intermission and after the curtain has come down. The theatre also hosts English-language readings from time to time.
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This authentic Italian eatery is a magnet for visiting film stars and the like. The fresh pasta can’t be beat.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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