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Over the centuries, this now placid square at the heart of the city has witnessed hundreds of executions, political capitulations and, more recently of course, riotous ice hockey celebrations, a sport about which Czechs are fanatical. Today, the action is more likely to come from the crowds of tourists and Praguers, enjoying a coffee or a beer at one of the numerous pavement cafés. Dominated by the splendid Church of Our Lady before Týn, the square is always buzzing; in winter and summer, it’s a wonderful place to watch the world go by.

National Revival artist Alfons Mucha was one of many to lend his talents to the Municipal House (Obecní Dům ), Prague’s star Art Nouveau attraction. One of its most beautiful and striking features is Karel Špillar’s mosaic above the main entrance, entitled Homage to Prague. It also has a firm place in history as it was from the Municipal House that Czechoslovakia was declared an independent state in 1918. Today, it is home to restaurants, cafés, exhibition halls, shops and the Prague Symphony Orchestra.

In the 15th century, King Vladislav II laid the corner-stone for this tower at the city’s eastern gate, intended to complement the Royal Court nearby. Used to store gunpowder in the 17th century, hence the name, the tower was damaged during attacks by Prussian forces in 1757. The Neo-Gothic façade seen today, with its sculptural decoration, dates from 1876.

The medieval route from the silver-mining town of Kutná Hora in Bohemia passed down the street known today as Celetná, through Old Town Square and on to Prague Castle. There’s still a lot of traffic on the gently curving street.

The Gothic and Baroque interior here wins the award for Prague’s creepiest sanctuary. The church is best known for the legend of the mummified arm hanging above the door (see One-Armed Thief), but visitors should not miss the opportunity to take in one of the organ recitals held here.

Also known as Týn Courtyard, this was a fortified merchants settlement in the 11th century. The Baroque and Renaissance houses were completely renovated in the early 1990s, creating what is now one of the Old Town’s most charming mercantile centres.

Built as a Jesuit college in the mid-17th century, the Clementinum now houses the National and State Technical libraries. The astronomer Johannes Kepler discovered the laws of planetary motion atop the observatory tower.

You will inevitably get lost trying to follow “Charles Street” from Old Town Square to Charles Bridge; relax and enjoy the bewildering, twisting alleys choked with shops and cafés.

George of Poděbrady lived here before he was elected king in 1458. The Romanesque “cellars” were ground-floor rooms until a flood-prevention programme raised the city’s streets 3 m (10 ft).

The 15th-century Catholic reformer Jan Hus preached in the reconstructed chapel on the square’s north side. The original church was converted into apartments in the 18th century but had a loving restoration to its former state in the 1950s.