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More than 40 international airlines fly to Prague’s Ruzyně airport. The national carrier Czech Airlines (ČSA) is a member of the Sky Team alliance, whose members include Delta, Air France and Alitalia. Direct flights from London are about 1.5 hours; from New York, about 9 hours.

Located 15 km (9 miles) northwest of the city centre, Ruzyně is Prague’s only international airport. Until 1989, a cheery, red neon hammer-and-sickle greeted visitors landing here. There are all the modern facilities here now, though, including car rental offices, bureaux de change, shops and restaurants. Municipal buses serve the airport, as does a reputable private transport service, but their cars charge more than taxis do.

Prague is on major European rail routes; the Orient Express’s London–Paris–Venice route passes through town. International trains to the Czech capital are comfortable, with couchette sleeping facilities, and fast excepting delays at the border, and a cheap alternative to flying if you have time.

Coaches are your best bet for long journeys on a budget. But these buses are often crowded and uncomfortable. Two metros and several trams stop at Prague’s main bus terminal Florenc.

If you’re going to be driving in the Czech Republic for more than 30 days, you’ll need an international driver’s licence. If you bring your own car, you must carry a vehicle registration card and a red warning triangle, and display a national identification sticker. A major motor-way connects Prague to the Slovak capital of Bratislava; otherwise, it’s all A and B roads.

Visitors from outside the EU can bring goods worth less than 175 euros (about Kč5,000) into the country without paying a duty. Two litres or less of wine, one litre of spirits and 200 cigarettes (or their equivalent in tobacco) can also be brought in duty-free.

Travellers from London should check with Go, a low-cost airline with return tickets to Prague at very reasonable prices. If you can be flexible about when you travel, look for stand-by tickets from Airhitch.

Most visitors may stay visa-free in the Czech Republic for up to 90 days, but it is always wise to confirm this with the Czech embassy in your own country or your travel agent for up-to-date visa requirements. Czech immigration officials may request you to be carrying at least Kč1,100 per day for your visit (or have a valid credit card).

While there’s no bad time to visit, Prague, like most European capitals, is teeming with tourists during the summer months. Off-season rates for hotels are usually in effect from September to March; check when making your booking. Winter is cold but beautiful under snow.

Prague’s underground transit system is fast, efficient and, with a little practice, easy to navigate. There are three lines, known as A, B and C; or more commonly, red, yellow and green. Validate your ticket, available from vending machines at the stations’ vestibules, at the ticket barriers. These passes are valid for all Prague public transport.

Prague trams make it easy to see much of the city while saving you shoe leather. The schedules can be a little tricky to read, however, and re-routings are frequent. Buy tickets in advance – they are available all over the city from newsagents, and from metro stations.

Buses serve outlying areas – they are banned from the centre because of pollution. As with trams, riders must validate their tickets by using the punching machines on the bus. For some stops, riders must notify the driver of their intention to get off by pressing a button near the door.

Prague’s taxis have received a lot of bad press (see Unscrupulous Taxi Drivers), but most firms are now reliable. Phone a central despatcher in advance – your hotel will be able to give you a number – to be assured of safety and a fair price. If the car doesn’t have a lighted sign with the word “taxi” written on it, don’t get in. And make sure the meter’s running. Generally, avoid taxis that line up outside the major tourist sights.

Prague’s city centre was not designed for the volume of traffic it sees nowadays. The streets are narrow and winding and parking is very scarce. If you must drive, keep to the right, wear a seatbelt, and be aware that traffic violations are payable on the spot. Illegally parked cars are regularly clamped or towed away by viligant traffic wardens.

Walking is the only way to see much of the city. The centre is only about 4 km (2.5 miles) from end to end and many of the historic sights, such as Prague Castle and the Old Town Square are in pedestrianized zones. Make sure you wear comfortable, flat-soled shoes, watch your step on the cobblestones, and look out for trams that drive in the centre of the road in both directions.

A river cruise along the Vltava can offer a relaxing and romantic afternoon of sightseeing that’s easy on weary feet. Tour boats depart from Čechův and Palackého bridges. You can also rent rowing boats near Charles Bridge.

Horse and carriages line Old Town Square and take tourists for short rides through the surrounding streets. This can make a pleasant (and romantic) after-dinner diversion. Surprisingly, the horses don’t seem to mind the crowds and auto traffic.

While Prague has numerous bicycle routes, cyclists do not have their own lanes on the streets and must share the road with cars, which can prove hazardous. The cobblestones can also be hard going. Some services offer guided cycling tours of the city – check with the Prague Information Service.

The Prague Information Service (PIS) serves as a central clearing house for information about all kinds of concerts, theatre performances and other cultural events. They literally have it all, from discos to art galleries, and publish it in a monthly guide available at their offices around town and on the Internet. They will also supply you with useful maps, and all the staff are English-speaking.

The state-run tourist office has locations all over the city and can offer the usual advice required by tourists, such as hotel accommodation, cultural events and details of guided tours, both in Prague and outside the city. They have a lot of English-language material to hand out for free.

Don’t listen to the jaded expatriates, who take pleasure in bringing this long-standing newspaper down. This English-language weekly has been publishing a fair semblance of news for more than 10 years. The entertainment, cinema, exhibition and restaurant guides are well-nigh essential. There are also interesting articles on local politics and events. It is available from most newsstands.

A quick search for “Prague” on any search engine will give you links to hundreds of web sites catering to Bohemians and bohemians alike. These offer a variety of information about where to stay, weather reports, what’s on, hotel accommodation, travel and much more.

Conveniently located at the same frequency as the BBC (101.1 FM), Radio Prague is the foreign-language service of state-run Czech Radio. It broadcasts morning and evening summaries of local and international news in English, plus other insightful features.

The preferred publication of the Czech reader has got it all. Two hundred or so pages published every month list all theatres, concerts and clubs, as well as current exhibitions in museums and galleries. It is also useful if you want to find out what’s playing at the nearest cinema.

One of many counter-culture magazines on sale in the city, this free publication has been covering the city’s club scene for more than five years. Although it’s not necessarily credible, it’s still entertaining. Definitely one for the twenty-something visitors to Prague who want to know about current nightlife.

An English-language trade and lifestyle monthly for the business professional is also of interest to tourists for its smart interviews with movers and shakers and fun reviews.

This new monthly mini-magazine is trying to give Time Out a run for its money in the Eastern Europe market. Time will tell, but the first issues have seen a competent and compelling tourist-orientated publication. Available at newsstands across the city.

Unless you enjoy being packed cheek-to-jowl with fellow travellers, visit this popular spot (see Charles Bridge) sometime other than midday. The mobs start arriving around 10am, especially during summer. Early risers can have the bridge more or less to themselves at sunrise.

Tourists are an easy target for petty thievery. Avoid any place where you’ll be pressed up against strangers. Pickpockets on trams and metro cars have numerous routines to relieve travellers of their valuables. Have a copy of your passport and avoid carrying too much cash.

The best way to avoid being taken for a ride, as it were, is to phone a central despatcher (see Taxis) to send a car to you. Avoid using cars marked “transport”, and those without pricing information posted on the door and never agree to “negotiate” a price – taxis should always have a meter running.

While it violates the law to charge tourists more, many reputable establishments, including the Jewish Museum (see Josefov), offer a 50 per cent discount to Czechs. Simply letting ticket sellers know you’re aware of the lower price helps, but it is still no real guarantee that you won’t be penalized for being a foreigner.

In a city as old as Prague, the infrastructure needs constant repair. This means tearing up streets and, inevitably, re-routing your tram. The Prague Post contains a weekly list of route and schedule changes, so check here before setting off. To avoid confusion, timetables for re-routed trams are yellow instead of white.

The municipal authorities gave up many years ago trying to count how many canine residents Prague has. It has also largely absolved itself of trying to clean up after them. Local dog-owners are also notoriously careless, so watch your step.

Despite the best intentions of the law, the oldest profession still thrives in a “grey zone” of the city. Never assume that prostitution is legal. Even saints should avoid prostitutes of both sexes: they are often known to supplement their incomes by picking pockets.

Unfortunately, Prague has too few reputable bars and cafés open into the early hours. The words “non-stop” and “herna ” are synonymous with shady characters; the latter are filled with slot machines and gambling addicts. You’d be better off getting an early night, or paying to get in to a nightclub.

Owing to 40 years of Communist isolation, some Czechs are sadly unaccustomed to people who do not look like them, or dress like them. Since 1989, the Neo-Nazi skinhead movement has grown at a distrurbing rate. Random, unprovoked violence against dark-skinned individuals is not uncommon, but it is unlikely to affect you in the main tourist areas.

The peak tourist season runs roughly from April through to September with another pocket of high prices around New Year; check whether prices have been hiked up for a particular event before booking. Recently an accommodation company has started offering last-minute prices for numerous hotels; you can check their availability at www.accomgroup.com.

Exploring accommodation options outside the city centre can save you a considerable amount on your hotel bills. The neighbourhoods of Žižkov, Karlín, Smíchov and Holešovice, for example, all have good connections to the centre (see Old Town Square) and an increasing number of good quality hotels.

If you’re staying a bit longer than the average tourist and want to save money on long-term accommodation, check the daily classified advertisement publication Annonce . Almost all the ads are in Czech, but if you can find someone to translate, you’ll find extremely affordable rooms and apartments for rent, both on short-and long-term agreements. It is available from most newsagents.

If you recognize the name of your hotel (such as a chain hotel), you’ll recognize the quality of the services and amenities; otherwise, be prepared for surprises. Not all hotel rooms have en suite bathrooms, for example, or plush bath towels. If such items are important to you, enquire before you book.

If you’ve failed to book a room in advance, go directly to a local travel agent or hotel. Do not accept accommodation from touts at the airport, train station or bus depot. Even if they’re not out to rob you, you have no guarantee as to the quality of the rooms.

Smaller hotels may not have reserved parking spaces for guests. If so, ask the management about the safest places to park. Never leave valuables in your car and make sure you’re parked in a legal space; being towed or clamped can ruin precious holiday time.

Prague is a very pet-friendly city – good news for animal-owners and bad news for allergy sufferers. When you book, check whether you can bring pets; if you fear the fur, ask for assurances that your room hasn’t been doubling up as a kennel recently.

Whatever the destination, it almost goes without saying that tourists should use common sense when it comes to travelling with valuables – if possible, leave anything you wouldn’t want to lose at home. In the better hotels, keep items such as passports and jewel-lery in the hotel safe. Be aware that even the best hotels can be targets of streetside scams.

If you’re staying a week or longer, you may want to skip the hotels entirely and rent a small flat. The Prague Information Service, state travel agency Čedok and numerous other local agencies can help you find a short-term rental (see Sources of Information).

Meat- and dairy-free dining is no longer the problem it was a few years ago. Many new restaurants, such as Dahab, offer vegetarians a wide variety of tasty meatless meals, while older establishments are increasingly sensitive to vegetarians’ needs. That said, never assume your vegetables won’t come smothered with cheese.

Except for the grander eateries, many Prague restaurants have yet to grasp multiple-course service. Emphasize that you want your appetizer (jako pšedkrm ) before your main course. You will probably also have to order your side dish à la carte . Your steak will be well-done unless you plead otherwise.

Verify the restaurant takes credit cards before you order. Restaurants seldom accept travellers’ cheques. Tell your waiter you’d like to pay with one word: zaplatím . You and your party may pay dohromady (all together) or zvlášt (separately).

While tipping in Prague is approaching the international standard of 15 per cent, it is still common in pubs to simply round up the bill. If your beer and schnitzel cost Kč82, for example, pay Kč90. Rather than leaving the tip on the table, tell your waiter how much you want to give.

Reserving a table is never a bad idea and can save you a great deal of hungry wandering come dinner time. In many restaurants, it’s common for lone diners to join other tables. If you’re alone and want to know if a seat is free, point at it and ask “Je tu volno ?”

Prague restaurants are seldom non-smoking. A local ordinance bans smoking at lunch time, but it is seldom, if ever, enforced. For a smoke-free meal, try the vegetarian restaurants Country Life and Little Buddha.

Unless you’re willing to hazard the sausage stands on Wenceslas Square, finding a bite late at night will prove challenging. The club Radost serves food until the early hours. Better hotels have late-night room service.

Your hotel will probably include a Continental breakfast with the price of your room. While Irish fry-ups can be found at bars such as the James Joyce and Caffrey’s, American diner-style breakfasts are largely unheard of. Cafés increasingly serve hemenex – ham and eggs – but seldom open before 9am.

If you’re travelling on a budget but still want a taste of the good life, you can see how the other half eat without breaking the bank by doing brunch at one of the city’s fine-dining establishments. Brunch buffets, complete with champagne and jazz, abound and seldom cost more than Kč500.

The more expensive the item, the more likely it will be that you can pay for it with a credit card. Shops selling souvenirs are more likely to accept credit cards than those selling necessities. Cards accepted by an establishment will be indicated on the shop’s front door.

Tourists are entitled to a refund of the value-added tax on purchases. Ask for a tax-free shopping cheque and tax-free envelope at the store. Complete the cheque and have it stamped at customs within 30 days. In Prague, visitors can collect their refund at several shops at Ruzyně airport (see Getting to Prague).

If there are shopping carts or baskets at the front of the store, take one as you go in. It’s common courtesy – shopkeepers will assume you’re a shoplifter without one – and it helps regulate the number of shoppers in the often tiny stores. Bags for your purchases may cost extra.

Prague tellers demonstrate a disturbing antipathy towards mathematics and always appreciate it if you have exact change, down to the last heller. Don’t be surprised if the clerk fishes the correct coins out of your hand. Smaller shops may even refuse to accept banknotes larger than Kč1,000.

Large department stores such as Tesco and Carrefour have now introduced one-stop shopping, but there is still the tendency in Prague for shops to specialize to an amusing degree. A papírnictví sells everything made of paper, from notepads to sanitary napkins, while the only place you’ll find an alarm clock is at a hodinářství .

Whole loaves of fresh sourdough bread go for less than Kč10. But be warned – this bread is free of preservatives, so it starts to go off after a day. Shops selling grilované kuře (roast chicken) are dotted around the city. Order a quarter or half bird to eat there, or, if you are in self-catering accommodation, you can take a whole bird home for a great dinner.

Large supermarkets often trade in quality for quantity when it comes to produce. The best fruit and vegetables are found at various outdoor markets around Prague. In the city centre, try Havelská.

Antiques dealers and junk merchants abound in the city centre. Going further afield will offer you an even better selection and prices. You may need a special permit to export antiques from the Czech Republic; ask the dealer. If you’re looking for Soviet paraphernalia, be warned that anything you find these days is likely to be a replica.

If you’re looking for some reading material for the next leg of your journey, head to Anagram, Big Ben or The Globe bookstore (see The Globe Bookstore and Coffeehouse), but don’t expect the latest titles. Or try Czech booksellers such as Kanzelsberger, where English-language classics go for a song.

You can buy 24-hour, 3-day and 7-day passes valid for unlimited use on Prague’s metro, trams and buses. Validate the ticket once and enjoy the ride, but don’t forget to sign the back: an unsigned ticket is not valid and ticket inspectors that appear unexpectedly can levy a fine up to Kč950.

Prague opera continues to defy the laws of supply and demand. Even the best seats are cheap by western standards, but it’s possible to buy standing-room only tickets and then slip into a seat in the largely empty hall when the overture begins.

Corporate and state sponsorship keeps ticket prices – and musicians’ salaries – low for the city’s major orchestras. The Czech Radio Orchestra, Prague Symphony Orchestra and other ensembles regularly give masterful performances, the tickets to which are seldom more than a few hundred crowns.

There’s seldom any need to pay more than Kč30 for a half-litre of draft beer. Even within the centre, Kč20 beer is not uncommon. Or journey out to Žižkov (see Žižkov TV Tower) or other working-class neigh-bourhoods for glasses as cheap as Kč12.

Even less expensive than pub fare is the food served cafeteria-style at the city’s many lunch counters and buffets. Grab a tray, your Czech dictionary and join the queue. Food is usually sold by weight. Lunch, with beer, should be less than Kč150.

Hostels usually have small double and even single rooms that offer greater privacy (see Hostels). Travellers can also find rooms or even entire flats for rent by the week (see Apartments). Check the bulletin boards at The Globe Bookstore (see The Globe Bookstore and Coffeehouse) and Radost nightclub (see Radost).

Students and teachers qualify for discounts on bus and train tickets, as well as airfares offered by GTS International. Czech trains have first-and second-class cabins, the latter being the cheaper. You can travel to most destinations within the Czech Republic and back for less than Kč400.

If you don’t care for leading yourself around the city, try asking a student hanging around Café Konvikt or elsewhere to show you around; you get an insider’s view of the sights, while the student gets a welcome free English lesson. An additional plus is that you will see much of Prague Castle without paying admission.

While admission to Karlovy Lázně, Radost and Roxy will cost you Kč200 or more at weekends, even these big clubs have free nights during the week. Smaller clubs further afield, such as Akropolis, Guru and Industry 55, are cheaper and more intimate but a little less polished (see Clubs).

Prague has only recently begun to think about the transportation needs of the disabled. Many of the newer metro stations have lifts and auditory beacons for the blind, but older stations in the centre remain largely inaccessible. Most wheelchairs won’t fit in the city’s trams and the city’s cobbled streets can be hard-going.

This free brochure outlines four sightseeing routes, with easy-to-read maps and brief informative texts, for wheelchair-users. The guide also lists barrier-free galleries, monuments, restaurants, public bathrooms and shops along the route. Pick it up at the Prague Association of Wheelchair Users.

In addition to publishing the above brochure, this group lobbies for the rights of the disabled. You can pick up the brochure and get advice about various other disability issues at their office near Náměstí Republiky. Some of their staff speak English.

Prague has only two buses dedicated to wheelchair-users. Carrying passengers from far-flung housing developments to a few central locations, they’re not much use to tourists. Many other buses have low platforms, but again, they mainly serve outlying areas.

Those visitors who have trouble walking can get an overview of the city by taking an open-topped bus tour around town. Pre-recorded narration in several languages plays during the trip. Look for the buses on Old Town Square and Náměstí Republiky.

As may now be clear, Prague isn’t the most disabled-friendly of the world’s capital cities. The following sights are at least partly accessible to wheelchair-users, although getting to them is sometimes a problem: St Vitus’s Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace (see Prague Castle), the Old Town Hall Features, the National Theatre (see Národní divadlo), Wallenstein Garden, Franciscan Garden, the Municipal House, the Church of St James and the Estates Theatre (see Stavovské divadlo).

Hearing impaired visitors will be happy to learn that most sights offer discounted entry.

Most of the newer hotels are accessible to wheelchair-users, although the number of barrier-free rooms is small. Hats off to the Hilton, where there are no fewer than 15 barrier-free rooms (see Chain Hotels). The Prague Association of Wheelchair-Users will also be able to supply a list of accessible places to stay.

Canine assistants to the visually impaired are permitted in banks, official buildings and historic monuments as well as on public transport. Be aware that not all members of Prague’s thriving dog population are as well-trained – avoiding dog mess is a problem for the sighted too.

Large language schools like Berlitz offer Czech lessons for foreigners, as does Charles University. Absolute beginners can take an intensive, four-week course for less than Kč5,000.

Accomplished German speakers can study Kafka in the original language; the rest can brush up their language skills or start from scratch. A five-month course in conversational German costs Kč4,000.

English may have replaced it as the lingua franca, so to speak, but French is still useful for travellers. Four-month courses for beginners cost around Kč4,000. You can also study French art, history, literature – even creative writing.

This liberal arts college offers internationally accredited degrees in business administration, political science and legal studies, as well as programmes in journalism and Eastern European studies. All courses are taught in English.

The oldest university in Central Europe offers some courses in English in its many degree and non-degree programmes. Short-term courses are taught over the summer months.

New York University offers study-abroad programmes for students enrolled at its US campuses and at affiliated universities elsewhere. Students enrolled in Czech universities may audit classes.

Established in 1995, the Prague Centre organizes more than 20 courses on a wide range of subjects such as information technology, Czech history and fashion design. Six-week courses cost Kč4,000 (with discounts for students, teachers and groups) and are offered frequently throughout the year.

This private firm has been training its students all over the world for six years to teach English to foreigners. Courses last four weeks. ITC assists graduates in job placement worldwide.

Expat parents can enroll their children at the International School of Prague, Riverside School and other grammar schools offering English-language instruction for children aged 3-18.

The Czech Republic’s currency is the crown (Kč), which is made up of 100 hellers. Crown notes come in denominations of Kč5,000, Kč2,000, Kč1,000, Kč500, Kč200, Kč100, Kč50 and the increasingly rare Kč20. Coins come in the following denominations: Kč1, Kč2, Kč5, Kč10, Kč20 and Kč50, as well as 50 hellers.

Most banks are open from 8am to 5pm. Although some banks, such as Živnostenská banka, are worth visiting just for their stunning interiors, the only other reason you’ll need to go to a Prague bank is if you want to take advantage of the typically lower fees they charge for currency exchange.

Although they may advertise “0 percent commission”, all bureaux de change will take a cut. The conversion rates vary little from exchange to exchange so there’s little point shopping around. Note that very few will accept coins. It’s a good idea to convert your crowns back to your own currency before you leave, as the Czech currency has a very low value outside of the country itself.

Bankomats are widely available throughout the city centre, although they are out of order (mimo provoz ) with alarming frequency. The machines that are working recognize major credit cards and global banking systems such as Cirrus. Be vigilant when using ATMs after dark.

Major credit cards are widely accepted at shops and restaurants that cater to tourists, but always check on your way in. Travellers’ cheques, on the other hand, are seldom accepted, although American Express cashes and sells their cheques at their various offices.

When not out of order, payphones accept either coins or phone cards (telefonní karty ), available at post offices and newsagents. More than 70 per cent of Czechs have mobile phones. You can rent a mobile phone at Prague’s Ruzyně Airport.

The main post office is lovely inside and worth a visit, whether or not you need to mail a postcard or letter overseas. It also offers a telegram service and a large phone room, which is a good way of making overseas telephone calls. Main Post Office:

As in most cities, nowadays one can find an Internet café on almost every corner. Expect to be charged upwards of Kč60 an hour, with a minimum time of 15 minutes. Many visitors do their surfing at The Globe.

In addition to the locally-produced Prague Business Journal and The Prague Post (see The Prague Post), downtown newsstands carry US weeklies like Time as well as international newspapers such as The Guardian , Wall Street Journal and the International Herald Tribune .

To call an ambulance, dial 155; for police, 158. In the event of a fire, call 150. Speak slowly and calmly and the operator will understand you. You may wish to carry your embassy’s phone number with you.

Prague’s municipal police are generally helpful to (law-abiding) visitors, although they continue to be dogged with accusations of bribe-taking. Don’t confuse members of private security services and Prague Castle guards for state or municipal police officers.

Prague’s doctors increasingly speak English and are accustomed to western standards of care. Some private clinics that cater to foreigners, such as the Canadian Medical Centre have doctors on call 24 hours a day. Should you need in-patient care, go to the foreigners’ clinic at Na Homolce Hospital.

If you need to report a fire, simply dial 150 and tell the operator what is burning and where. In the street, it’s not uncommon to see a smouldering waste bin, where someone has carelessly thrown a lit cigarette. Don’t worry – someone will be along in a minute with a bucket of water to put it out.

Czech dental care is considered among the best in Europe. For dental emergencies, call 2494 6981. For routine care, try the English-speaking dentists at the American Dental Associates or Millennium Dental Care.

For even such common medicines as aspirin or cold remedies, you’ll need to visit a lékárna . A pharmacy at the Kotva department store is open at weekends, but most are closed. There are 24 other pharmacies scattered around the city and a 24-hour pharmacy at Palackého.

Consult a physician before your trip and check whether your health insurance covers you abroad. If it doesn’t be sure to take out extra insurance to avoid high charges should you fall ill. Also be aware that your medication may be known by a different name brand abroad. Your doctor may also recommend an inoculation against hepatitis before your trip, although this isn’t strictly necessary.

Pickpockets target tourists in crowded spaces where they can jostle you. Distribute your valuables among several inside pockets and never carry more cash than you need. Leave photocopies of your passport in your hotel room.

The fat-heavy Czech diet may cause indigestion, so bring along your favourite stomach-settler. Tap water is safe to drink, but even local residents prefer bottled water. The most dangerous fluid in a city full of bars is alcohol; watch your intake – Czech beer is stronger than a lot of other varieties.