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The first and main focus of most tourists’ visit to Prague is the gloriously ornate and varied castle complex (see Prague Castle). Its determined survival in the face of an often turbulent history only seems to add to its attractiveness and fascination. Despite its medieval appearance, however, it is still as much of a political stronghold as it has always been, as the seat of the modern-day Czech government, overseen by President Václav Klaus whose office is here.

The Gothic splendour of St Vitus’s spires can be seen from almost every vantage point in Prague, but don’t miss the opportunity to see its beautiful stained-glass windows and gargoyles close up.

The onion-domed white towers of this 17th-century church complex are like something out a fairytale, but it’s up to you whether you choose to believe in the reconstruction of the Virgin Mary’s house, the Santa Casa, at the heart of the building.

Visitors may regret the disappearance of the maze and pineapple trees that once featured here, but will likely appreciate the absence of Rudolph II’s lions. Within the English-style garden are the former Presidential Residence (the First Lady didn’t like it), the sgraffitoed Ball Game Hall and the Royal Summer Palace, also known as Belvedere.

The Royal Route, established in the 15th century for the coronation of George of Poděbrady, covered the distance from the Municipal House on the Old Town Square to the castle. The last stretch climbed the hill right about here, although the original steps were reconstructed during Empress Maria Theresa’s Hradčany renovation in the 18th century. Halfway up is a music pavilion, from which a brass quartet of the Castle Guard serenades the city each morning at 10am.

Nestled below the Loreto (see The Loreto) and at the head of the Stag Moat is Nový Svět (New World), perhaps the best street in town for romantic strolling, weather permitting. The picturesque low houses were built in the 17th century to replace the medieval slums built for castle workers after the former burned down in 1541. They remain unchanged by time, still displaying their decorative house signs. Rudolph II’s choleric astronomer Tycho de Brahe) lived at No. 1 and apparently found the noise of nearby churchbells insufferable.

It seems a cruel joke, but the Communist secret police had an interrogation centre in this picture-postcard neighbourhood. The plaque on the wall at Kapučínská 2 honours those who were brought here and coerced into compromising themselves, their neighbours and even their family.

The relatively gentle slope of the Prague Castle’s “back-door” entrance leads from the Malostranská metro to the castle’s eastern gate. Local artists and artisans line the steps, selling everything from watercolour prints to polished stones. Below the steps are terraced gardens.

Many visitors enter this square backwards, trying to fit St Vitus’s spires in their view-finders. Tear your eyes away from the castle’s western face and you’ll see, among other Renaissance buildings, the colourful Archbishop’s Palace and the grim Schwarzenberg Palace across the way. In the green centre is a plague column from 1726; opposite the castle is the Toskánský Palace, now the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

The Courthouse Steps lead from Hradčany’s former mayoral residence, now the hotel Zlatá Hvězda, to the old courthouse at Loretánská 1. At the bottom are two statues, St John of Nepomuk on the left and what appears to be St Joseph in Renaissance garb on the right. There are more steps than is immediately apparent, making the pub halfway up a convenient stop-off point.