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The Verdon river flows through deep limestone gorges into the turquoise Lac de Ste-Croix, creating one of Provence’s, most stunning natural landscapes (see Grand Canyon du Verdon).

This huge hotel offers its own health spa and heated pool as well as a range of treatments offered at the nearby Thalassotherapy and Health Centre. It also has a casino, four restaurants and bar.

This historic hotel is the best address in Arles. Rooms are comfortable, and the lounge and foyer have a Provençal atmosphere.

This converted country house just outside St-Paul-de-Vence (though it’s too far to walk, save for the most nippy) is calm, friendly and peaceful, with a pool under palm trees and an immaculately kept garden. Rooms and suites are furnished and decorated in Provençal style, and there are pretty views.

Grasse is a rather unprepossessing town at first sight, but its air is scented by the perfume factories for which it has been famous for more than four centuries. Vast quantities of blossoms are processed here for their essential oils, and a jasmine festival is held each year in August. You can find out how perfume is made at the Musée Internationale de la Parfumerie (see Musée International de la Parfumerie, Grasse).

Matisse (1869–1954) lived in Nice from 1917 until his death. His earlier works were inspired by the vivid light and colours of the Riviera. During World War II he retreated to Vence, where he designed the unique Chapelle du Rosaire, including its wonderful vestments and furnishings (see Chapelle du Rosaire).

Different sorts of herbal tea can relieve stress, aid digestion and improve sleep.

One of Avignon’s oldest restaurants, yet with a lightness of touch to its classic dishes.

The walking possibilities amid these forests, valleys and peaks are magnificent. Among the best is the two-hour trek from Collobrières to the Chartreuse de la Verne monastery (see p79).

Herbs and lavender provide great pickings for bees.