Provence’s top sights span the region’s rich and varied history, from Roman arenas, isolated abbeys, and the palace of the medieval popes, to the more recent opulence of the belle époque era and the glamorous resorts beloved of the 20th-century jet set. Sunsoaked beaches, pretty villages nestled among lavender fields and a mountainous hinterland have inspired generations of artists, and continue to enchant every visitor to the area.
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Tucked away in the hills, the little village of Les Mées is best known for the strange rock formations known as the Pénitents des Mées. Legend says these pinnacles were once monks who broke their vows of chastity and were turned to stone by St Donat (see Les Pénitents des Mées).
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This fine old inn breathes class, as does the gastronomic Provençale cooking.
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The company has been producing and printing Provençal fabrics since 1818. It’s now the only such outfit in the region, with materials, table linen and wedding gowns.
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In AD 800 a congregation of monks ogled female Saracen prisoners being led to the River Durance and were turned to stone as punishment. There they remain – a 2-km (1-mile) line of rocks, some 100 m (300 ft) high, looking like repentant monks with their cowls up (see Les Mées).
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Just a few steps from the port. The pissaladière of rock mullet is particularly tasty.
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In La Serve in southwest France, deep in the Arcadian beauty of the Beaujolais with its softly rolling hills, three historic roulottes, or gypsy wagons, stand in a luscious meadow among trees brimming with apples.
These wagons have retired from their life on the road and, with their wheels standing still, offer accommodation for guests at Les Roulottes. Great attention to detail has been paid to the restoration of the wagons – there are beautiful built-in Art Nouveau cupboards with fine curved doors, an original (though no longer functioning) wood-burning stove shining proudly in a corner,. Rich claret-coloured brocade, velour and velvet furnishings that shimmer alongside lacy curtains and yellowing photographs of the original inhabitants adorning the walls.
Staying here is a bit like camping. You meet other guests on the way to use the facilities in the main building and in the morning you shuffle through dew-drenched grass to breakfast, which is, by the way, delicious.
It is a happy, peaceful little place: horses graze in the meadow, sheep laze in the field next door, and even the numerous cats and dogs play together amicably.
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Next door to La Treille Muscate is this pretty restaurant with a leafy terrace.
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The terrace overlooks the stream rushing through the village; in the dining room, antique Moustiers crockery competes for space with 19th-century paintings. Outside or in, the food refines the best of Provençale cooking. Dishes include fresh pasta with foie gras and truffles or lamb from Sisteron with herbs (see Les Santons, Moustiers-Ste-Marie).
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Another gourmet choice, with some truly excellent dishes such as tagliatelle with cepes and truffles.
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Great views over the port to accompany fine regional cuisine.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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