traveldk.com

Emerging dramatically from its crag on the edge of the Alpilles hills, Les-Baux was home to one of the finest courts in medieval Provence. Abandoned for centuries, the ruined castle and labyrinthine streets now throb with summer tourists. But the site remains majestic, the atmosphere lively and the views over mountains and plains quite breathtaking (see Les-Baux-de-Provence).

Perched on a limestone crag, Les Baux is among the most dramatic fortified villages in Provence. It is crowned by a ruined citadel, the Château des Baux, whose walls date from the 10th century AD. At its entrance, the 14th-century Tour du Brau houses an interesting small museum. The village is closed to cars (see Les-Baux-de-Provence).

A 90-minute round trip to one of the finest lighthouses.

Californian Linda Lorentz is one of Provence’s best goat’s cheese producers. Find her by snaking up the road from the village towards Viens, or at Apt’s market.

Provençal folk make many alcoholic drinks by macerating or distilling plants – not only pastis but also chicouloun, origan de Comtat (marjoram-based) and others.

Start the day with a visit to the largest and most striking Roman monument in Provence, Les Arènes . From the highest tier of seats you have a fine view of the historic centre and the Rhône. From here, walk across to the Théâtre Antique , for another glimpse of Roman Arles, then walk down the rue du Cloître to the place de la République, where water gushes from bronze masks at the foot of an obelisk, brought here from Egypt by the Romans.

On the east side of the square, visit the fine Romanesque Eglise St-Trophime (see Les Arènes), with its lovely sculpted pillars crowned by little figures of saints and martyrs. Follow the rue de l’Hôtel de Ville to Les Thermes de Constantin (see Thermes de Constantin), the remains of a palace built for a 4th-century AD Roman emperor. Then spend up to an hour in the Musée Réattu (rue du Grand-Prieuré open daily adm), with its fine collection of 18th–20th-century art, including works by Picasso.

Another great painter, Van Gogh, is associated with place du Forum, cluttered with cafés – one has been painted to look just as it was in his work Café la Nuit (see Le Café la Nuit, Arles). Stop in for coffee. End the morning at the Museon Arlaten (rue de la République open daily adm), where the largest folklore collection in Provence vividly recalls some of the region’s rich and fading traditions (see Provençal Legends).

The Latin inscription on a rock near St-Geniez indicates the site of a 5th-century “Theopolis”, or City of God Christian centre. The rock aside, no trace has been found. However, phenomena including strange lights and odd weather add to the mystery of the place.

Dishes such as gigot of lamb and risotto of coquilles St-Jacques (scallops) served in the restaurant of this four-star hotel. There is also a terrace.

The world’s most glamorous diners expect splendour, and get it amid wood-panelling, gilt mirrors and glistening chandeliers. Splendour on the plates, too, where France’s leading chef, Alain Ducasse, works Provençale cuisine into a sensual art form. If you have to think about the expense, you’re in the wrong place.

Born in Puget-Théniers in 1805, the socialist was one of the leaders of the revolutionary Paris Commune of 1871.