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Thickly wooded with forests of cork and holm oak, pine, myrtle and sweet chestnut, the dramatic Massif des Maures is wild, hilly and sparsely inhabited, even though it is only a stone’s throw from the busy coastal hotspots. It is home to France’s only surviving wild tortoises, and makes a welcome change from crowded beaches (see p79).

The forests, valleys and peaks are criss-crossed with excellent trails (see Hill Walks in the Maures Mountains).

Elegant restaurant with a menu prepared by masterchef Jacques Maximin – simple ingredients but sophisticated recipes.

Ménerbes was superbly sited for defence. As a Protestant stronghold, it held out for five years during the 16th-century Wars of Religion. The position remains dramatic, but peace now reigns around the citadel and townhouses. The views are terrific.

Pastoral memories mix with Christian ritual, as live lambs participate in the ceremony.

The jet-set come together for the only street race on the Formula One calendar.

Almost 820 m (2,700 ft) up, Mons has the heritage to match its grandiose position: remains of the great Roche Taillée Roman aqueduct run nearby (see Roche Taillée, Mons). In the village itself, narrow alleys wind around ancient porches, arcades and the wonderful 12th-century church. A gem.

Rising 600 m (2,000 ft) behind Toulon, Mont Faron is most dramatically reached by cable car from blvd Admiral Vence. The views and walks are terrific.

The highest peak in the Provençal Alps rises to a height of 3,050 m (10,020 ft) and dominates a lofty landscape of bare rocky summits, streaked by snow until early summer, pine forests and alpine meadows. The massif is crossed by breathtaking passes, including the Cime de la Bonette, by which the D64 road traverses the shoulder of Mont Pelat at a height of 2,860 m (9,400 ft), making it the highest pass in Europe.

The lonely peak of Mont Ventoux, at 1,910 m (6,260 ft), seems to guard the gateway to the region. Bare of trees, its higher slopes are known as the désert de pierre (stone desert) and are snow-covered from December to April. It has featured in the Tour de France, and even the strongest cyclists dread the treacherous ascent (see p119).