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The delightful town of Arles, founded by the Romans, stands on the east bank of the Rhône and is the gateway to Provence from the west (see Roman Arles).

Aix is just a stone’s throw from the sprawl of Marseille, but keeps its own identity, with cosmopolitan cafés, a grand cathedral and beautiful 18th-century fountains (see Aix-en-Provence).

This vast expanse of salt marshes, lagoons and grazing land, home to rare bird and animals species, is protected within the Parc National de Camargue and other conservation areas (see The Camargue).

Overlooked by Les Alpilles, a thickly wooded, miniature sierra of limestone hills, St-Rémy is a perfect exploring base. Mansions built during the 15th and 16th centuries grace its historic centre. One of them was the original home of the de Sade family, ancestors of the notorious Marquis, and now houses a small museum of Roman artifacts, which were found at Glanum, about 30 minutes’ walk from the town centre. Here, the site of one of the oldest Greek-Roman settlements in Provence is landmarked by a magnificent triumphal arch and mausoleum, known collectively as Les Antiques (see Les Antiques de Glanum).

Perched on a limestone crag, Les Baux is among the most dramatic fortified villages in Provence. It is crowned by a ruined citadel, the Château des Baux, whose walls date from the 10th century AD. At its entrance, the 14th-century Tour du Brau houses an interesting small museum. The village is closed to cars (see Les-Baux-de-Provence).

This massive, fortress-like abbey, built by Benedictine monks in the 10th century, can be seen from a great distance. When it was built, the low hill on which it now stands was an island surrounded by pools and marshes and is still, appropriately, known as Mount Ararat. Damaged by fire in 1726, the abbey was restored during the 19th century, and its Eglise Notre-Dame is one of the largest Romanesque buildings in Provence. Below the church, a 12th-century crypt and chapel have been carved into the hillside (see Abbaye de Montmajour).

Silvacane, along with Sénanque (see Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque) and Thoronet, is one of the three great sister-abbeys constructed in the 12th century by the Cistercian order as it rose to prominence in Provence. Its plain, austere architecture reflects the rule of the order, which was founded by St Bernard in protest at the luxury and corruption of other monasteries. The church has a high, vaulted transept and the cloister arcades and refectory were added in the 13th and 14th centuries. Abandoned by its monks in the late 14th century, it became a living abbey once again in the 20th century.

This delightfully pretty fishing port (see Cassis) with its brightly coloured fishing boats anchored in a harbour on a rugged, rocky coastline, was a favourite with painters such as Dufy, Derain and Matisse (see Painters in Provence), all of whom were inspired by its clear light and bright Mediterranean hues. Amazingly, it has escaped being spoiled by tourism, and there are pretty rocky coves (calanques ) and beaches nearby. Cassis is also noted for its excellent seafood (fresh sea urchins are considered a local delicacy) and there are plenty of good restaurants.

The white battlements of the Château de Tarascon seem straight from a historical romance. Built to guard a vital crossing of the Rhône on Provence’s borders, the riverside castle has steep, crenellated curtain walls between massive round towers and looks impregnable. It was begun by King Louis of Anjou, ruler of Provence in the 15th century, and was completed by his successor, the somewhat extravagant King René. On his death, Provence became part of France (see Union with France) and the castle lost its strategic importance, becoming a prison until 1926 (see La Tarasque, Tarascon).

Opposite Les Baux, and with a great view of the village, is the dramatic Val d’Enfer, where the soft rock of the cliffs has been eroded by wind and water into weird twisted shapes. Old cuttings show where the easily worked rock was quarried to build the houses and battlements of the village. One of these quarry tunnels has now been turned into a remarkable spectacle, with thousands of beautiful Renaissance frescoes projected on to the 20-m (65-ft) high walls of the artificial cavern.