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Despite its relaxed beach-bag and flip-flop image, the town of Fréjus has an exceptional double heritage. As Forum Julii, it was the second port of the Roman Empire in the region and retains some of the oldest and most extensive ancient remains in Provence. Particularly notable are the elliptical, 12,000-seater arena and theatre (see Les Arènes de Fréjus). Meanwhile, the town’s medieval bishopric status has left it with an extraordinary group of episcopal buildings. The 12th-century cathedral incorporates a wonderful octagonal baptistry from an earlier, 5th-century church while the 14th-century cloisters have ceilings painted with bracingly lurid events from the Apocalypse (see Notre-Dame-de-Beaulieu, Cucuron). Definitely not to be missed out from any tour of the Var region.

Second only to the Verdon gorges (see Grand Canyon du Verdon) in dramatic potential, the Nesque gorges run for 20 km (12 miles) between the villages of Villes-sur-Auzon and Monieux. The rocky drop descends more than 300 m (1,000 ft), its sides alternately bare or covered in scrub vegetation. Cut into the cliff, the winding road is definitely not for vertigo sufferers. The Castelleras viewpoint looks onto the 850-m (2,800-ft) Rocher de Cire (Wax Rock – so-called because it is home to millions of bees). This is also the start of a testing walk to the bottom of the gorges, where Chapel St-Michel is dug into the rock.

The deep gorge carved through the mountains by the River Cians is made all the more spectacular by the deep red of the exposed rock. The river descends 1,600 m (5,250 ft) in just 25 km (15 miles) between the eyrie village of Beuil and Touet-sur-Var, where the Cians meets the larger river Var. The canyon is at its narrowest and most spectacular at Pra d’Astier, around midway between the two villages (see Gorges du Cians and Gorges du Dalius).

The most spectacular of the region’s river canyons. Here the River Loup has sliced its way deep into the limestone rock to create a series of waterfalls including the 40-m (130-ft) Cascade de Courmes, churning rapids and deep potholes such as the Saut du Loup (see Gorges du Loup).

The English novelist (1914–91) retired to Nice, where he wrote J’Accuse – the Dark Side of Nice (1982).

Grasse is a rather unprepossessing town at first sight, but its air is scented by the perfume factories for which it has been famous for more than four centuries. Vast quantities of blossoms are processed here for their essential oils, and a jasmine festival is held each year in August. You can find out how perfume is made at the Musée Internationale de la Parfumerie (see Musée International de la Parfumerie, Grasse).

Matisse (1869–1954) lived in Nice from 1917 until his death. His earlier works were inspired by the vivid light and colours of the Riviera. During World War II he retreated to Vence, where he designed the unique Chapelle du Rosaire, including its wonderful vestments and furnishings (see Chapelle du Rosaire).

Toulon-based naval officer Cousteau perfected the aqua-lung in the 1940s, pioneering the sport of scuba diving.

Caesar besieged Marseille after its citizens sided with his rival Pompey in 49 BC.

When the French Revolution erupted in 1789, the people of Marseille were among its staunchest supporters, marching to a tune that became known as La Marseillaise, now France’s national anthem.