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The medieval chateau, which was remodelled during the Renaissance, is flanked by terraces, each with sculpted box-trees, overseen by firs and pines.

These terraced gardens were laid out in the 1750s and remain a majestic mix of French and Italian influences – ordered in the geometrical style of France, but enhanced by fountains and statuary favoured by Italy. The effect is romantic harmony.

Between them, Antibes and Juan-les-Pins have 25 km (16 miles) of coast and 48 beaches, slotted into rocky creeks or opening out into sandy expanses. The prettiest is La Garoupe, on an inlet of the peninsula. It’s highly fashionable and, in summer, very crowded – but with good reason.

The chalky hills of the “Little Alps” rise no higher than 500 m (1,640 ft) but display an arid beauty. This miniature sierra stretches for 24 km (15 miles) between the rivers Rhône and Durance, and the GR6 hiking trail which crosses it is one of the finest walks in Provence (see p73).

A huge family aquapark with 12 chutes, a wave pool and several swimming pools including one for toddlers (see Marineland, Antibes).

A 15-km (9-mile) trail from Le Palud to Point Sublime. Allow 7–8 hours (see Martell Trail).

The best mountain path is from Pont de l’Esterel to Mont Vinaigre. Four hours (see Massif de l’Esterel).

Thickly wooded with forests of cork and holm oak, pine, myrtle and sweet chestnut, the dramatic Massif des Maures is wild, hilly and sparsely inhabited, even though it is only a stone’s throw from the busy coastal hotspots. It is home to France’s only surviving wild tortoises, and makes a welcome change from crowded beaches (see p79).

The forests, valleys and peaks are criss-crossed with excellent trails (see Hill Walks in the Maures Mountains).

Rising 600 m (2,000 ft) behind Toulon, Mont Faron is most dramatically reached by cable car from blvd Admiral Vence. The views and walks are terrific.