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The lonely peak of Mont Ventoux, at 1,910 m (6,260 ft), seems to guard the gateway to the region. Bare of trees, its higher slopes are known as the désert de pierre (stone desert) and are snow-covered from December to April. It has featured in the Tour de France, and even the strongest cyclists dread the treacherous ascent (see p119).

Tough trail cyclists are spoiled for choice in the Var. The most dramatic trips are around the Verdon gorges (see Grand Canyon du Verdon) but Draguignan, Figanières and Fréjus also provide challenging routes.

The marked trails, up and down mountains, through vineyards, forests, gorges and creeks, are endlessly inviting. Figanières is a key centre in the Upper Var while the Alpes de Haute-Provence has some 1,500 km (900 miles) of marked tracks.

No cars are allowed on the island, so it’s a walk or cycle-ride along the rocky, 3-km (2-mile) track from the port to the loveliest beach in France (see Hill Walks in the Maures Mountains). Pine-fringed, it boasts white sand, calm waters, no commerce and few people. Your private slice of paradise.

Perhaps not the most luxurious beach in Cannes, but it is no more crowded than the pay beaches and it’s free.

Everyone has his or her “place” on St-Trop’s largest beach. Famous beach clubs cater to the super-rich and glamorous, to nudists, to gays, as well as to everyday families. The 5-km (3-mile) sandy stretch across the headland from the town also has extensive public areas. There’s space in which to escape the crowds and appreciate natural beauty (see Plages de Tahiti and Pampelonne).

Many rare plants can be seen in this park, with its 11 km (7 miles) of walking trails and fresh-water lagoon.

Palm and olive groves and a small lake surround 4,000 roses planted in memory of Princess Grace of Monaco, who died in a car accident.

Port-Cros is the smallest of the Iles d’Hyères, and the national park protects the delightful island and 18 sq km (7 sq miles) of sea around it from the development that has overtaken so much of the coast. On land, it shelters beautiful butterflies and rare sea birds, and there is excellent scuba diving and snorkelling (see Scuba Marine Park, Port-Cros).

Mercantour National Park, sprawling over 700 sq km (270 sq miles), is one of Europe’s largest and its rocky slopes are home to rare species including chamois, ibex, moufflon and marmot. Golden eagles and the rare lammergeier vulture soar above the peaks (see Vallée des Merveilles and Musée des Merveilles).