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Within 15 minutes of Marseille’s centre, you are out of the city and into a different world. Here white rocks plunge into the blue sea and the road snakes into creeks (calanques ) of great beauty, and small settlements. This is where the Marseillais spend their weekends, eating, drinking and keeping rich developers out. After the “village” of Les Goudes, the road peters out and access to other, even more picturesque creeks (towards Cassis) is by foot or boat (see Calanque d’En-Vau, Cassis).

Probably the prettiest mountain range in Provence, the Dentelles are formed by three ridges of chalk topped by ragged crests. The French think of these as lacework (dentelles ), but they can look more like fangs in rough weather. Within the range, tiny villages (Suzette, La Roque Alric) cling to the crags as if by magic and climbers are attracted to the sheer rock-faces. The walking, too, is spectacularly good, notably up to St Amand, at 730 m (2,400 ft), the highest point. Round the western edge cluster the picturesque wine villages of Beaumes-de-Venise, Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Séguret. It’s advisable to stop here after, rather than before, a ramble (see Vineyards and Distilleries).

Tucked away in the hills, the little village of Les Mées is best known for the strange rock formations known as the Pénitents des Mées. Legend says these pinnacles were once monks who broke their vows of chastity and were turned to stone by St Donat (see Les Pénitents des Mées).

Emerging dramatically from its crag on the edge of the Alpilles hills, Les-Baux was home to one of the finest courts in medieval Provence. Abandoned for centuries, the ruined castle and labyrinthine streets now throb with summer tourists. But the site remains majestic, the atmosphere lively and the views over mountains and plains quite breathtaking (see Les-Baux-de-Provence).

Perched on a limestone crag, Les Baux is among the most dramatic fortified villages in Provence. It is crowned by a ruined citadel, the Château des Baux, whose walls date from the 10th century AD. At its entrance, the 14th-century Tour du Brau houses an interesting small museum. The village is closed to cars (see Les-Baux-de-Provence).

A 90-minute round trip to one of the finest lighthouses.

Provençal folk make many alcoholic drinks by macerating or distilling plants – not only pastis but also chicouloun, origan de Comtat (marjoram-based) and others.

Here, tall old houses are set around a 17th-century rococo church and an onion-domed clock tower.

Founded before the reign of Charlemagne, during the Dark Ages, the town of Lurs was fortified as early as the 9th century AD, when it was ruled by the bishops of Sisteron and the princes of Lurs. Deserted in the 19th century, it has now become an artists’ colony known for prints and graphic arts. There are stupendous views from the Promenade des Evêques (Bishops’ Walk) leading to the chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Vie, especially colourful in spring when the wildflowers bloom.

This was where Pope Clement V had his summer residence, and it remains a graceful spot of 17th- and 18th-century houses, fountains and avenues shaded by plane trees.