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Fortified on the side of a green hill, Callas has a winding, self-contained charm imposed by its isolation near the edge of the Canjuers Plateau. It’s also a fine base for walking the nearby Pennafort Gorges.

Herb-perfumed candles have a nice smell to match the soft light.

This monument to belle époque splendour is also the heart of the region’s famous gambling industry – well worth a look whether you want to play the stakes or simply soak up some glamour (see Casino de Monte Carlo).

Cassis is overseen by France’s highest coastal cliffs, whose scale reinforces the intimacy of the narrow little harbour and old town centre down below. Tourists crowd the beaches – the best bathing is in the creeks to the west – but Cassis remains a fishing port, and well retains its authenticity (see Cassis).

Fresh, dry whites – particularly good served with Provençale fish dishes.

This delightfully pretty fishing port (see Cassis) with its brightly coloured fishing boats anchored in a harbour on a rugged, rocky coastline, was a favourite with painters such as Dufy, Derain and Matisse (see Painters in Provence), all of whom were inspired by its clear light and bright Mediterranean hues. Amazingly, it has escaped being spoiled by tourism, and there are pretty rocky coves (calanques ) and beaches nearby. Cassis is also noted for its excellent seafood (fresh sea urchins are considered a local delicacy) and there are plenty of good restaurants.

Castellane is a lively market town surrounded by steep mountains. The Verdon flows through it on its way to the Grand Canyon. It is also a centre for adventure sports (see Castellane).

Opposite Les Baux, and with a great view of the village, is the dramatic Val d’Enfer, where the soft rock of the cliffs has been eroded by wind and water into weird twisted shapes. Old cuttings show where the easily worked rock was quarried to build the houses and battlements of the village. One of these quarry tunnels has now been turned into a remarkable spectacle, with thousands of beautiful Renaissance frescoes projected on to the 20-m (65-ft) high walls of the artificial cavern.

The medieval popes’ cathedral has 17th-century alterations but a 13th-century altar.

The relics of St Anne (mother of the Virgin) were discovered on this site in 776, and here they remain, having survived the destruction of the church and its rebuilding from the 11th century on. The two crypts have also survived, containing sarcophagi from early Christian times. The cathedral has 18th-century paintings and a 15th-century stained-glass window of the Tree of Jesse. The 17th-century St Anne Chapel contains what is said to be the saint’s veil, although it’s probably of 9th-century Egyptian origin.