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When European nobility took to wintering in Nice, they colonized Cimiez Hill with mansions and hotels. The grandiose Boulevard de Cimiez is, thus, sumptuous with gardens and magnificent villas in styles from Louis XV, to Neo-Gothic, to Oriental. Most impressive of all is the Excelsior Regina Palace, a belle époque masterpiece where Queen Victoria once stayed. Most of the edifices now house apartments, but the opulence remains palpable.

Squatting on a steep-sided crag, high above the narrow valley of the River Durance, the formidable defences of the Citadelle guard one of the strategic gateways to Provence (see Sisteron). Built in the 13th century, the bastions and ramparts, crowned by towers and a graceful chapel, are an awesome piece of military engineering. In summer, they become the venue for the Nuits de la Citadelle, an enchanting festival of music, theatre and dance.

Avignon’s premier showcase for contemporary art.

It’s difficult to resist a village claiming to be “world capital of candied chestnuts”. In the heart of the Maures mountains (see p79), Collobrières is surrounded by forested slopes.

This is high, wild country, where the Knights Templar made a base. The 12th-century StAndré chapel testifies to their presence, and affords unbeatable views over the nearby Artuby Gorges.

Fast improving red and rosé wines.

Another hugely improved group of wines, not least due to investment from fashionable outsiders.

The reds, especially, can be very rewarding – although rosés are great for summer picnics.

Famed for rosés, but now also producing classy reds and heady whites.

In theory, one step up from ordinary Côtes-du-Rhône, but they can be several steps up in practice – especially if the name of the village (such as Cairanne) is mentioned on the label.