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Provence and Côte d'Azur : Places to eat

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  • The restored 18th-century country house is superbly sited amid lavender and olive trees above Grasse. Equally splendid is the cooking of chef Jacques Chibois (see Bastide St-Antoine, Grasse).

  • For once, a restaurant with real vegetarian options, such as asparagus in anise and olive oil or melon with tomatoes. Great for carnivores too.

  • Marseille fish dish of up to six species, such as monk-fish and John Dory. Spicy stock is served first as soup.

  • In front of the casino (see Café de Paris), under white umbrellas and baskets of flowers with the Mediterranean in the background, the Café de Paris is a delightful place for an al fresco meal or a drink.

  • Original early 20th-century decor in a restaurant-bar open from 4am to 10pm and serving regional fare.

  • The terrace of this restaurant-bar, in an attractive 19th-century villa, is shaded by leafy vines and has live music almost every evening in summer.

  • It’s worth staying at this gorgeous chateau hotel just to enjoy breakfast on its clifftop terrace, looking out over the sea below (see Château de la Chèvre d’Or, Eze).

  • Locals sip their apéritifs at the counter and from the kitchen comes simple, flavoursome food (fresh fish soup, tournedos au gorgonzola ).

  • Exceptional Provençale dishes such as pieds et paquets and daube (see Daube). Excellent value, with Provençal painters exhibited inside.

  • Also next door to the palace, Etienne has frescoes, a terrace and a way with Provençale fare – notably truffles and tomatoes.

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