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From the Quai des Belges on the Vieux Port (see Vieux Port) walk up La Cane-bière, the commercial hub of the 19th-century city where you can still sense the Second Empire grandeur – almost immediately on the left, the Palais de la Bourse (Stock Exchange) is a monumental expression of trading confidence; it now contains the Musée de la Marine detailing Marseille’s sea-going history (Open Tue–Sun Adm). A little further on, at No. 11, is the Musée de la Mode, one of France’s best fashion museums (Open 10am–6pm daily Adm). At the Neo-Gothic Eglise des Réformés, cross to place Stalingrad and enjoy a drink by the fountain at Brasserie Danaïdes.
Take the leafy cours Joseph Thierry, then blvd Longchamp to the Musée Grobet-Labadié and Palais Longchamp (see Palais Longchamp), then wander the lush Longchamp park to place Maréchal Foch. Take the blvd de la Libération, left into rue St Savournin to cours Julien, a lively centre for musicians and artists.
Wriggle down to the place du Marché des Capucins, heart of the city’s souk market area, then up the style with the designer shops of rue St Ferréol. Place de la Préfecture and rue Edmond Rostand have further galleries, antiques shops and bric-à-brac stalls.
End your morning stroll at place Thiars, a hive of galleries, restaurants and bars. You will have more than deserved your lunch at Le Caribou (see Le Caribou).
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