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From the Quai des Belges on the Vieux Port (see Vieux Port) walk up La Cane-bière, the commercial hub of the 19th-century city where you can still sense the Second Empire grandeur – almost immediately on the left, the Palais de la Bourse (Stock Exchange) is a monumental expression of trading confidence; it now contains the Musée de la Marine detailing Marseille’s sea-going history (Open Tue–Sun Adm). A little further on, at No. 11, is the Musée de la Mode, one of France’s best fashion museums (Open 10am–6pm daily Adm). At the Neo-Gothic Eglise des Réformés, cross to place Stalingrad and enjoy a drink by the fountain at Brasserie Danaïdes.

Take the leafy cours Joseph Thierry, then blvd Longchamp to the Musée Grobet-Labadié and Palais Longchamp (see Palais Longchamp), then wander the lush Longchamp park to place Maréchal Foch. Take the blvd de la Libération, left into rue St Savournin to cours Julien, a lively centre for musicians and artists.

Wriggle down to the place du Marché des Capucins, heart of the city’s souk market area, then up the style with the designer shops of rue St Ferréol. Place de la Préfecture and rue Edmond Rostand have further galleries, antiques shops and bric-à-brac stalls.

End your morning stroll at place Thiars, a hive of galleries, restaurants and bars. You will have more than deserved your lunch at Le Caribou (see Le Caribou).

Fans of the writer Marcel Pagnol (see Marcel Pagnol) will recognize the bar’s setting from his books. Lunch only.

Original early 20th-century decor in a restaurant-bar open from 4am to 10pm and serving regional fare.

This offshore island fortress was built in the 16th century to protect the city’s port and was turned into a prison in 1580. Among its inmates were the real Comte de Mirabeau, and the fictional Count of Monte Cristo, the antihero of Alexander Dumas’ novel of the same name (see Alexandre Dumas). The fortress is accessible by ferry from the Vieux Port.

Exceptional Provençale dishes such as pieds et paquets and daube (see Daube). Excellent value, with Provençal painters exhibited inside.

Even older than the above, Dromel Ainé has been in the business of selling fantastic chocolates, sweets, and a range of unusual teas and coffees since 1760. An unmissable Marseille experience.

A collection of beach bars and restaurants with a stunning setting.

Extraordinary enamelled terracotta figures of fruit, vegetables and meat. Artisan works which literally look good enough to eat.

On the south side of the Vieux Port is Marseille’s fort, built in 1680 by Louis XIV to impose authority on the truculent city – its cannons pointed inland. Star-shaped and built on two levels in pink-tinged limestone, it stares across at the much older St Jean fort. Now split in two by the 19th-century port-side boulevard, St Nicholas remains one of the city’s most imposing buildings.

Finest grocery-cum-delicatessen in Marseille, with irresistible selections of cheese, cold meats, spices, wines and much else besides.