DK Travel : Provence and Côte d'Azur : Monaco and the Riviera

The French Riviera , stretching from Cannes to the Italian border, is the most mythologized stretch of Mediterranean coastline. In the 19th century its balmy winter climate attracted plutocrats, princes and their entourages, and its clear sunlight and vivid colours drew a new breed of painters. In the 1920s it became a summer resort for the first time, and in the 1950s and 1960s it was the epitome of jet-set chic and the habitat of film stars, musicians and millionaires. You could say that this is where modern tourism really started. In high summer there seems to be hardly a square metre of beach, a yacht mooring, parking space or café table left vacant, while off-shore or in Antibes’ harbour float the cruisers of the mega-rich. This is a coast like no other and all you can do is surrender to its mystique. Meanwhile, the enclave of Monaco, an independent state since the 14th century, has a character all of its own.

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A Morning Tour of The Rock

Start this walk around the oldest part of Monaco, where the Grimaldis founded their principality. Visit the state apartments and the Prince’s Palace (see Prince’s Palace, Monaco), taking in the lavish salons, throne room and 17th-century chapel.
From place du Palais it is a short walk along rue Basse, one of the most picturesque streets in the old quarter, to No. 27, the Wax Museum of the Princes of Monaco (Open Oct–Feb: 11am–5pm daily; Mar–Sep: 10am–6pm daily Adm). Here tableaux act out episodes from the history of the Grimaldis. Carry on along rue Basse to the Museum of the Chapel of the Visitation, on place de la Visitation (Open 10am– 4pm Tue–Sun Adm). Housed in the Baroque chapel are works by artists Rubens and Zurbaran.
At the end of rue Basse, turn right and double back along avenue St-Martin to the Oceanographical Museum (Open Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm daily; Apr–Jun, Sep: 9am–7pm daily; Jul & Aug: 9am–8pm daily Adm). You’ll need at least 90 minutes here to view the tanks of marine fauna from all over the world. Don’t miss the aquarium with its fearsome sharks. Lunch in the museum’s restaurant and savour the view of the Riviera and the Esterel hills from its terrace, before rounding off your day with the 30-minute ride on the Azur Express tourist train. This leaves from the museum on a round trip past the port, the palace, casino and ornamental gardens.
Antiques Market, Antibes

Rummage through stalls selling everything from cut glass and statuary to antique porcelain, lace, embroidery and linen in search of something small enough to carry home. Thursday and Saturdays, from 8am to noon.
Avenue des Beaux-Arts and Allée Serge Diaghilev, Monaco

With plenty of cash floating around, Monaco is a magnet for designer shops and haute couture . Try these two streets for the latest look.
Bar & Boeuf, Monte Carlo

Famed chef Alain Ducasse’s terrace restaurant serves only sea bass and beef. After dinner, skip the queue to get into Jimmy’z next door (see Jimmy’z, Cannes) via the private entrance.
Bar des Célébrités, Cannes

Billed as “the place to have a drink in the company of stars”, but even during the Film Festival, you are unlikely to rub shoulders with the A list. One of the best bars in Cannes, nonetheless.
Café de Paris, Monte Carlo

In front of the casino (see Café de Paris), under white umbrellas and baskets of flowers with the Mediterranean in the background, the Café de Paris is a delightful place for an al fresco meal or a drink.
Carlton Casino Club, Cannes

On the seventh floor of this very smart hotel, formal dress is required to gain access to the exclusive gaming rooms. Celebrate winning with a glass of champagne, or drown your sorrows in a very dry martini – shaken, not stirred, of course.
Carré d’As, Cannes

The terrace of this restaurant-bar, in an attractive 19th-century villa, is shaded by leafy vines and has live music almost every evening in summer.
Casino de Monte Carlo

The epitome of Riviera glamour, luxury and gambling excess (see Casino de Monte Carlo).
Casino de Monte Carlo

This monument to belle époque splendour is also the heart of the region’s famous gambling industry – well worth a look whether you want to play the stakes or simply soak up some glamour (see Casino de Monte Carlo).