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Start at the Tourist Office (5 Promenade des Anglais), then turn left along avenue de Verdun to place Masséna, the city’s central square. Take in the glorious red façades, gardens and ornamental fountains before crossing to enter Vieux Nice on rue Alexander Mari. Turn right into rue de l’Opéra and left into rue St-François-de-Paul, an old-fashioned street with long-established shops, notably Auer for confectionery (No. 7) and Alziari for olive oil (No. 14). Proceed to Cours Saleya for the celebrated flower market, then turn into tiny rue Gaëtan to soak up the old town atmosphere. Before leaving the old town, don’t fail to take in the cathedral, the magnificent Palais Lascaris, place St-François fish market and the narrow, shop-filled rue Pairolière.
Emerge into the relative peace and 18th-century harmony of place Garibaldi, then take rue Dr-Ciaudo to the splendid MAMAC (see Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (MAMAC)), where you can spend an hour or so admiring the museum’s wonderful modern art. Back in the fresh air, stroll along Boulevard Carabacel with its elaborate mansions.
At place Magenta, forget culture and start shopping. For designer fashion proceed into rue Paradis then avenue de Suède. Rue de Rivoli then brings you to the legendary Hotel Negresco (see Le Negresco, Nice). If you’re feeling rich, lunch in its Chantecler restaurant (see Le Chantecler); if watching the pennies, have a look anyway: its interior abounds in ornate treasures.
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