traveldk.com

There is much manmade splendour in Provence, but little to touch the majesty of this 12th-century Cistercian abbey, built in a wooded dip near Lorgues. Probably the finest example of Romanesque architecture in the region, along with its sister houses, Silvacane and Sénanque (see Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque), it rises with sober magnificence. The un-mortared stones of the church, monks’ buildings and cloisters are decorated only by changing sunlight, their interior volumes inspiring awe and serenity. The harmony of structure and setting make contemplation unavoidable.

This welcoming village inn has forged its reputation on classical dishes: pâtés, foie gras and confit de canard.

The city’s hippest late-night bar offers more than 200 beers, 100 whiskies and music from salsa to trip-hop. The restaurant specializes in fresh fish.

The finest example of Gothic architecture in Provence was erected to house the relics of Mary Magdalene, “discovered” on the site in 1280. The basilica appears unfinished from the outside (there is no belfry) but within, the sense of space and balance is stunning. So too are the treasures, notably a 16th-century altarpiece depicting the Passion and a renowned 17th-century organ. Mary Magdalene’s remains are in a reliquary and a marble sarcophagus in the crypt.

A glorious village, unravelling down its hillside in a cascade of little streets, stairways and flowers (see Bormes-les-Mimosas).

Fortified on the side of a green hill, Callas has a winding, self-contained charm imposed by its isolation near the edge of the Canjuers Plateau. It’s also a fine base for walking the nearby Pennafort Gorges.

Renovated in the 1990s, the casino has retained its belle époque style, added on a glass dome and widened its horizons. Alongside the gaming rooms are a hotel, restaurant and nightclub.

Far from the summer crowds, the path winds around creeks and beaches, vines and pines, offering exceptional views. From Graniers beach to Cap Camarat takes six hours.

It’s difficult to resist a village claiming to be “world capital of candied chestnuts”. In the heart of the Maures mountains (see p79), Collobrières is surrounded by forested slopes.