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There is much manmade splendour in Provence, but little to touch the majesty of this 12th-century Cistercian abbey, built in a wooded dip near Lorgues. Probably the finest example of Romanesque architecture in the region, along with its sister houses, Silvacane and Sénanque (see Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque), it rises with sober magnificence. The un-mortared stones of the church, monks’ buildings and cloisters are decorated only by changing sunlight, their interior volumes inspiring awe and serenity. The harmony of structure and setting make contemplation unavoidable.
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The finest example of Gothic architecture in Provence was erected to house the relics of Mary Magdalene, “discovered” on the site in 1280. The basilica appears unfinished from the outside (there is no belfry) but within, the sense of space and balance is stunning. So too are the treasures, notably a 16th-century altarpiece depicting the Passion and a renowned 17th-century organ. Mary Magdalene’s remains are in a reliquary and a marble sarcophagus in the crypt.
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A glorious village, unravelling down its hillside in a cascade of little streets, stairways and flowers (see Bormes-les-Mimosas).
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Fortified on the side of a green hill, Callas has a winding, self-contained charm imposed by its isolation near the edge of the Canjuers Plateau. It’s also a fine base for walking the nearby Pennafort Gorges.
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It’s difficult to resist a village claiming to be “world capital of candied chestnuts”. In the heart of the Maures mountains (see p79), Collobrières is surrounded by forested slopes.
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This is high, wild country, where the Knights Templar made a base. The 12th-century StAndré chapel testifies to their presence, and affords unbeatable views over the nearby Artuby Gorges.
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Despite its relaxed beach-bag and flip-flop image, the town of Fréjus has an exceptional double heritage. As Forum Julii, it was the second port of the Roman Empire in the region and retains some of the oldest and most extensive ancient remains in Provence. Particularly notable are the elliptical, 12,000-seater arena and theatre (see Les Arènes de Fréjus). Meanwhile, the town’s medieval bishopric status has left it with an extraordinary group of episcopal buildings. The 12th-century cathedral incorporates a wonderful octagonal baptistry from an earlier, 5th-century church while the 14th-century cloisters have ceilings painted with bracingly lurid events from the Apocalypse (see Notre-Dame-de-Beaulieu, Cucuron). Definitely not to be missed out from any tour of the Var region.
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The medieval St-Jean gate is a great introduction to this ravishing maze of streets set above the terraced hillsides and vineyards of Bandol. The sun is warm, the air scented and the panorama breathtaking.
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Nestling amid forests of cork-oak and chestnut, La Garde-Freinet stands sentry to the wild Maures Mountains. Higher still are the ruins of the medieval village fortified by Saracens.
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The only access to this glorious perched village is via two gates in its 13th-century walls. Within, steep paved streets climb tortuously to the feudal castle. Views over olive groves to the sea are outstanding.
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