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At the northern gates of Provence , the Vaucluse exudes a cultured air. Its rich past – Roman inheritance in Orange, papal legacy in Avignon – is amplified by summer festivals in both towns, while the perched villages of the Luberon seem purpose-built for holiday homes. But the villages are not perched by accident and Avignon’s ramparts were not for show – defence was the motive for both. On Mont Ventoux, the Monts de Vaucluse or remote parts of the Luberon, you’re in Provence at its most elemental.
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Morning
Start in Carpentras by visiting the synagogue. Take the D942 to Mazan and on, through woodland, to Villes-sur-Auzon, a charming Provençal village. Continue on the D942 to the Gorges de la Nesque to experience 20 km (12 miles) of awe-inspiring scenery, with sheer drops of 300 m (1,000 ft). Pause at the Belvédère de Castelleras for heart-stopping views.
Continue to Monieux, stopping at Les Lavandes restaurant in the village centre (04 90 64 05 08 €) if it is time for lunch and you fancy savoury, rustic cooking. Continue to Sault (see Sault-en-Provence) where, in July and August, the valley is a riot of purple lavender, yellow broom and the white of the rocks – an unmissable sight.
Afternoon
Take the D164 towards Mont Ventoux (see Mont Ventoux), another challenging drive, and stop for breaks at Col des Tempêtes for the views across Toulourenc Valley, then the summit for the most stunning panorama in Provence.
Descend the mountain to Malaucène, taking the tiny D90 into the Dentelles de Montmirail. Pause in any of the cafés in Beaumes-de-Venise for a glass of the local sweet white wine. Continue to delightful Séguret (see Fax and Poste Restante), then return by the D7 to Carpentras, rewarding yourself with dinner at Le Vert Galant (12 rue de Clapies 04 90 67 15 50 €€), the best restaurant in town.
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When the summer lavender flowers, this medieval abbey surrounded by purple fields is a spectacular sight (see Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque).
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This village, with its wandering little streets, is made truly remarkable by its chateau, built in the 12th century and still lived in by descendants of the same family. The vaulted rooms, armoury, salons and, especially, the kitchens are extraordinary.
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One of France’s rare female top chefs brings international influence to regional cuisine.
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The hamlet is remote but the refined Provençale cooking is a treat – try rabbit with basil. Booking essential.
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Overhanging the gorges 550 m (1,800 ft) below, Brantes stares across the Toulourenc Valley to Mont Ventoux. Its tiny paved streets and vaulted passages boast a chapel but no shops. It is particularly impressive in March, when the almond trees are in bloom.
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The medieval popes’ cathedral has 17th-century alterations but a 13th-century altar.
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The relics of St Anne (mother of the Virgin) were discovered on this site in 776, and here they remain, having survived the destruction of the church and its rebuilding from the 11th century on. The two crypts have also survived, containing sarcophagi from early Christian times. The cathedral has 18th-century paintings and a 15th-century stained-glass window of the Tree of Jesse. The 17th-century St Anne Chapel contains what is said to be the saint’s veil, although it’s probably of 9th-century Egyptian origin.
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An impressive monastery with elegant gardens and a splendid chapel.
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The chateau has lovely grounds and first-rate Mont Ventoux wines.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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