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Start in the courtyard of the Sapienza, marvelling at the remarkable façade of Sant’Ivo . Head around the church’s right side and out the back exit on to Via della Dogana Vecchia. If you need a morning pick-me-up, turn left and then right into Piazza Sant’Eustachio (if the namesake church is open, pop in for an early 18th-century interior). In the elongated piazza to the left are fine views of Sant’Ivo’s dome and two great cafés to choose from, Camillo and Sant’ Eustachio.

Return to Via della Dogana Vecchia and turn right to visit the Caravaggio works inside San Luigi dei Francesi . Continue up the street to Via delle Coppelle and turn left for more Caravaggio at Sant’Agostino. Continue into Piazza della Cinque Lune and walk a few yards to the left down Corso del Rinascimento to Ai Monasteri (see Ai Monasteri) and browse the quality liqueurs and old-fashioned beauty products, all made by monks.

Around the corner is Palazzo Altemps, now full of Classical statuary. Spend a good hour inside. Then relax from the morning’s sightseeing with a stroll amid the street performers and splashing fountains of Piazza Navona . Enjoy a tartufo ice cream or a full lunch at the wonderful Tre Scalini , before ending the morning window-shopping along the antiques of Via dei Coronari .

The parkland on the other side of the Circus Maximus from the Palatine Hill conceals exquisite early churches and other gems. Start on the south side of the Circus Maximus, now a sunken patch of dust and weeds, but once a majestic racecourse until the popes plundered its stones to build their palaces. Head up the hill to the Rose Garden (see Rose and Orange Gardens, Parco Savello). In spring and summer few places in Rome radiate such beauty. Continue along the old wall and enter Parco Savello’s Orange Garden (see Rose and Orange Gardens, Parco Savello) to take in the view from the parapet. Next door is Santa Sabina . Use a torch and binoculars to scrutinize carved wooden doors and the Crucifixion scene. Stop next at Piranesi’s Piazza of the Knights of Malta and peer through the celebrated keyhole.

Wind down Via di San Alessio until Viale Aventino and San Saba. Take time to appreciate the notorious St Nicholas fresco on the left wall. In the Parco della Resistenza dell’8 Settembre you can get a gelato in the park’s café and gaze at length on the 3rd-century Aurelian Wall (see Beyond the City Walls).

Cross over to the lovely Protestant Cemetery, pay your respects at the graves of Shelley, Keats and friends, pause to reflect on the splendid Pyramid of Caius Cestius, and leave your donation in the box as you exit.

Volpetti is a fabulous choice for lunch with a made-to-order gourmet sandwich.

Start with a cappuccino at Café Sant’Eustachio . Follow Salita de’ Crescenzi into Piazza della Rotonda and the stunning beauty of the The Pantheon . Head down to Piazza di Minerva, with Bernini’s Elephant Obelisk and the façade of Santa Maria sopra Minerva , hiding masterpieces by Filippino Lippi and Michelangelo inside.

Via S Caterina da Siena becomes Via Pie’ di Marmo (look right to see the famous ancient marble foot). The street spills into the long piazza in front of Galleria Doria Pamphilj . After paying homage to works by Caravaggio, Tintoretto and Bernini continue out the east end of the piazza on Via Lata, then on to the Corso to Santa Maria in Via Lata (see Santa Maria in Via Lata). Turn left up the Corso to the Baroque Piazza Sant’ Ignazio, backed by Rome’s best trompe-l’oeil frescoes in Sant’Ignazio di Loyola. Work your way behind the square’s mini palaces onto Piazza di Pietra. A narrow alley leads to the Column of Marcus Aurelius. Head to Giolitti for a delicious ice cream.

Walk west on Via del Leone into Piazza Borghese, home to an antiques print market and the Palazzo Borghese . Two blocks north it opens out on to Piazza Augusto Imperatore, home to many churches, Augustus’s Mausoleum and the Ara Pacis . End your morning with lunch at trendy ’s ’Gusto .

Start at the Porta San Sebastiano, the grandest city gate of them all, where you can visit the Museo delle Mura . Climb the stairs for great views. From here, continue straight on along the Via Appia Antica . One of the first sights you’ll come to, on the left at a crossroads, is the small church of Domine Quo Vadis? - this marks the spot where Peter, fleeing persecution, encountered Christ and decided to return to Rome and face his martyrdom like a saint. The church contains a replica of footprints in stone, said to be those of Christ, but it is actually an ancient pagan ex voto .

Quite a bit further ahead, you’ll come to the Catacombs of San Sebastiano. Take the guided tour, and don’t miss the curious fresco of a bowl of fruit and a partridge, which, according to some ancient writers, was the most lascivious of all creatures. Continuing on, past a mobile bar where you can buy snacks and drinks, visit the Circus of Maxentius, an ancient racetrack. Note how amphorae were embedded in the bricks to lighten the construction of the upper grandstands. Last stop will be the 1st-century BC Tomb of Cecilia Metella. The frieze of bulls’ skulls and garlands is beautiful and the cone-shaped sanctum is peaceful.

For lunch, walk back to the Antica Hostaria l’Archeologia (see Antica Hostaria l’Archeologia, Via Appia Antica). After lunch, backtrack a few hundred metres to the bus stop to catch the No. 118 into town.

Roasted Roman spring lamb, so succulent the name claims you’ll “burn your fingers” in your haste to eat it. When abbacchio (lamb) is unavailable, once the spring slaughter is over, they switch to less tender agnello (young mutton).

Old-fashioned pensione -style relic. The rooms are large and clean and each has its own washbasin. Ask for a room that opens onto the dazzling view.

The cuisine here hails from the owners’s home in the nearby Abruzzi mountains, as the name suggests.

A whole palazzo devoted to after-dark fun. The pub downstairs sometimes breaks out a DJ or live band; the upstairs pizzeria broadcasts football matches on the large screen; the rooftop terrace has great views and serves a full menu.