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Massive wine cellar; one of the best selections of fine labels in Rome at reasonable prices.

Beautiful ties from Valentino, Gigli, Givenchy, Zenga, Gucci and Les Copains at reasonable (for designer) prices and all in one spot.

A prime tourist position (next to the Pantheon) doesn’t always sound the death knell. This joint guarded by a wooden Pinocchio doorman serves the best fragola (strawberry) ice cream in town and interesting variations such as orange chocolate.

A jumble of excavations from all eras, including a piece of 13 BC crypta (porticoed courtyard) attached to a destroyed theatre. The museum’s didactic panels, which are an excellent introduction to Rome’s layer effect, plus the medieval frescoes are more interesting than the rather plain excavations underneath.

One of Rome’s oldest wine bars, with lots of labels on offer. A bit of a squeeze inside and out, but a better option than the nearby bars of the Piazza Navona.

Die-hard Trastevere osteria complete with wooden tables and traditional menu.

Archetypal Trastevere trattoria . Block-style wooden tables and butchers’ss paper mats form the decor; the menu is recited by the busily indifferent waiters rather than printed. Good table wine and the food comprises excellent, simple traditional dishes. In fine weather there is seating on the tiny piazza-cum-car park out front.

This osteria ignores its high rent location, acting as if little has changed since it opened in 1886. Prices are relatively low and dishes are solid Roman specialities (see Roman Dishes). There is no phone and no reservations; come early or expect to queue.

Famous for its first-rate cookery and grand setting, right next to the soaring columns of the Portico d’Ottavia. Try chicory shoots (puntarelle ) with anchovy dressing, a typical Roman dish.