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Just steps away from all the sights of the ancient centre. Serenity reigns supreme, with decor and service to match. The historic building has been renovated and every room is equipped with a dataport.

The name refers to the ancient cattle market that was once here. Now the area is a mini-archaeological park, with two 2nd-century BC temples and a later Arch of Janus. If not for the ferocious traffic, it would be a wonderful place to linger. Dating from the reign of Constantine or later, the arch is unprepossessing, but the temples are amazingly well preserved. The rectangular shrine is to Portunus, god of rivers and ports, while the circular one is a Temple of Hercules.

Originally called the Foro Mussolini, the name was understandably changed in the late 1940s, even though the 16-m (55-ft) obelisk still shouts out “Mussolini Dux” (“Mussolini the Leader”). In imitation of every mad Roman emperor, there was even supposed to have been a 75-m (250-ft) statue of Il Duce posing as Hercules. The sculptures of the Stadio dei Marmi, 60 colossal nude young Fascist athletes, are worth a look.

This converted convent has a roof garden restaurant overlooking the Imperial Fora. Walnut-panelled interiors create warmth, while painted tiles decorate the bathrooms. The meeting room seats 15–80 people and is equipped with all facilities.

The water spouting from Bernini’s Triton is puny compared to the gushes rising from Glaucus in this huge fountain and traffic circle. The fountain is surrounded by naiads and horses in this 1888 confection by Mario Rutelli (grandfather of Francesco, the city’s mayor from 1993 to 2001).

Vaguely British-style pub upstairs, with all sorts of live music being played in the basement nightly.

The statues ringing Bernini’s theatrical 1651 centrepiece symbolize four rivers representing the continents: the Ganges (Asia, relaxing), Danube (Europe, turning to steady the obelisk), Rio de la Plata (the Americas, bald and reeling), and the Nile (Africa, whose head is hidden since the river’s source was then unknown). The obelisk, balancing over a sculptural void, is a Roman-era fake, its Egyptian granite carved with the hieroglyphic names of Vespasian, Titus and Domitian.

One of Rome’s more popular English-style pubs, but featuring South American-inspired food. Jazz and Latin music on occasion.

One of the best grocers in the city, extremely popular at lunchtime for its hot dishes and in the evening for its fried and baked calzone (stuffed pizza pockets). Locals start queueing up at 5pm.