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The focus is on books, but a couple of nights a week are devoted to live roots music.

Rome’s first gay and lesbian shop has a selection of books in English, plus information concerning goings-on about town.

Once the Communist Party’s headquarters, this building now houses a well-stocked bookshop. Every Sunday one section of the store is entirely devoted to children, who are free to play and read.

Surprisingly successful 1998 mix of comedy and fable set against Nazi-occupied Italy. Writer/director Roberto Begnini’s Jewish bookseller uses comedy to shield his son from the horror of their Nazi concentration camp by pretending it’s all a big game. It won three Academy Awards.

An ex-footballer runs this ultra-traditional eatery hidden away in a cul-de-sac next to the riverside boulevard. If you’re looking for a true taste of Rome, the recipes don’t get more Roman than this.

Rome’s best value Indian restaurant, set in two attractive medieval rooms. Tandoori cooking is a speciality

Believe it or not, the Fascist complex of EUR has a truly charming restaurant with huge picture windows overlooking the lake, where during the day you can watch boaters go by and the ducks paddle about. The food is simple but is as elegant as its surroundings (see Lo Chalet del Lago, EUR).

A pleasant surprise in rather flavourless EUR. Huge picture windows right on the lake make lunch a visual treat. The menu focuses on light fare; the fish dishes are nicely presented.

An Art Nouveau hotel near Piazza del Popolo. The patio has a small fountain, and antiques punctuate the decor. Rooms have high ceilings and wooden floors, and breakfast is served on the roof terrace.

The ultimate Romantic poet (1788–1824) who lived, to varying degrees, the cavalier life so beloved by his genre. He spent years in Italy in the company of the Shelleys and other friends, and based a large part of Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage and Don Juan on his experiences here.