traveldk.com

Lovely antiquarian market consisting of about 17 stalls specializing in antique prints and books.

Huge, ultra-modern music store with dozens of listening stations so you can better select your choice of cassettes and CDs. Tastes range from Italian pop to classic opera.

Antonioni (b.1912) helped create the Italian New Wave (Red Desert ) and has enjoyed Hollywood success (Blow Up ).

This wall monument is a pale shadow of the elaborate tomb for Julius II that Michelangelo first envisaged and for which he carved this figure. Some claim there is a self-portrait hidden in the flowing beard. Moses is currently undergoing a long restoration but remains visible (see San Pietro in Vincoli).

The Renaissance is known for naturalism, but Michelangelo warped this for artistic effect. Here, Mary is too young, her dead son, achingly thin and small, laid across her voluminous lap. Hearing the work being attributed to better known sculptors, the artist crept into the chapel of St Peter’s one night and carved his name in the band across the Virgin’s chest (see Pietà).

Although he considered himself a sculptor first, Michelangelo managed to turn this almost flat ceiling into a soaring vault peopled with Old Testament prophets and ignudi (nude men). He did it virtually alone, firing all assistants save one to help grind pigments (see Sistine Chapel Works).

Under this church lies a 2nd-century AD shrine to Mithraism, a popular religion among Rome’s soldiers and lower classes while Christianity was gaining with patricians (see Santo Stefano Rotondo).

Great little pub, less relentlessly trendy than most, but has proved to have staying power through the fickle Trastevere scene.

Rome’s very first power station has been transformed into a remarkable showcase for Greek and Roman statues - parts of the Musei Capitolini collection (see Musei Capitolini) that, until now, were kept in storage. The effect is extraordinary, playing the monolithic might of modern technology off against the noble, human vulnerability of these ancient masterpieces.

Cosy wine bar with a full menu of hearty Tuscan soups, cous cous, tuna steaks and, for dessert, delicious carrot cake.