Although functioning as a vibrant, modern capital akin to any in Europe, the unique appeal of Rome is that the entire city is a vast, 3,000-year-old, indoor-outdoor museum. In every quarter you’ll find ancient monuments, art treasures and timeless architecture in churches, galleries and protected ruins. Home to the world’s smallest city, the Vatican, Rome has religion at its heart and history in its soul – a city that dazzles and inspires visitors time and time again.
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Like most of “underground Rome”, Nero’s fabulous and vast palace was not originally buried. But when Renaissance worthies such as Raphael chopped holes in the roof and lowered themselves into the sumptuously decorated rooms on ropes, they called the spaces “grottoes”, and named the intricate frescoed designs of foliage and fantastical creatures “grotesques” (see Nero’s Golden House (Domus Aurea)).
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When the rooms of the mad emperor’s house were discovered in the late 1400s, everyone thought they’d found mysterious grottoes. Consequently, the style of wall painting found here became known as “grotesque” and was much imitated by Renaissance artists, including Raphael (see Nero’s Golden House (Domus Aurea)).
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Slightly higher prices than most but better selection and more fashionable wares at this stock house for mostly women’s suits and skirts.
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This eclectic, funky gallery housed in a former convent sells wood, stone and ceramic objets d’art from around the globe.
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Eclectic but good food accompanies a wide range of beers here, with live music played in the basement.
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This laid-back pub is a staple of Trastevere nightlife, always lively, with tables on the piazza in summer.
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A fine, though small collection of Middle and Far Eastern art, ranging from prehistoric Persian ceramics to 18th-century Tibetan paintings. The most fascinating works are the Ghandharan. These 3rd-century BC to 10th-century AD Indian Buddhist works display both Asian and Greek influences, due to the conquest of the area that is now Pakistan by Alexander the Great.
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Looking for a nice watch that won’t blow your budget? This friendly proprietor sells name brands at about 30–50 per cent below regular retail prices. Strong on Swatch watches.
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The graceful botanical gardens and grounds of Palazzo Corsini now provide one of the most enjoyable places to while away an hour or two and breathe in air richly perfumed by more than 7,000 plant species that thrive here. The gardens, which now belong to the University of Rome, include indigenous and exotic varieties, grouped according to ecosystems.
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Palazzo Corsini’s beautiful gardens are now the University of Rome’s botanical museum.
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