Although functioning as a vibrant, modern capital akin to any in Europe, the unique appeal of Rome is that the entire city is a vast, 3,000-year-old, indoor-outdoor museum. In every quarter you’ll find ancient monuments, art treasures and timeless architecture in churches, galleries and protected ruins. Home to the world’s smallest city, the Vatican, Rome has religion at its heart and history in its soul – a city that dazzles and inspires visitors time and time again.
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The de facto centre of Rome and convergence of traffic patterns, during evening rush hour conducted with balletic brio by a white-gloved policeman. The piazza is flanked by the Palazzo Venezia, from whose balcony Mussolini once exhorted hordes to the joys of Fascism (see Palazzo Venezia).
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Poet, Communist and film-maker (1922–75). Filmed notorious versions of Oedipus Rex and The Decameron .
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This oversized, well-worn sandalled marble foot belonged to an unidentified ancient statue.
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Valadier carefully designed this view from his gardens, across Piazza del Popolo to St Peter’s (see An Afternoon Roman Passeggiata).
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The traditional time to enjoy the most famous panorama of Rome is at sunset. Other charms here include the water clock, the busts of various notables and an Egyptian-style obelisk Emperor Hadrian erected on the tomb of his beloved Antinous (see The Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese).
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These gardens are the other most famous view of Rome, much cherished by Romantic writers since the early 19th century, when the gardens were designed by Giuseppe Valadier. If the exclusive Casina Valadier café/restaurant (long closed for restoration) should miraculously be open for business, no place is more romantic for a drink or a meal (see Villa Borghese).
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Pinocchio specializes, as does this entire area, in the celebrated porchetta (pork roast).
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The best Roman Jewish cooking in the Ghetto since 1856 (although also the priciest). Hosts of TV shows have been seen sneaking in to try and unlock the chef’s secrets. Service can be slightly off-hand, but the artichokes can’t be beat.
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Roman Jewish cuisine at its finest, in a beautiful piazza hidden away from the hubbub. Traditional dishes include carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style fried artichokes). Booking is a must.
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When traipsing around ruins has sapped your energy, spend some time cooling down with the locals. This open-air swimming pool in EUR is Rome’s largest and most pleasant, with a special area for kids.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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