Although functioning as a vibrant, modern capital akin to any in Europe, the unique appeal of Rome is that the entire city is a vast, 3,000-year-old, indoor-outdoor museum. In every quarter you’ll find ancient monuments, art treasures and timeless architecture in churches, galleries and protected ruins. Home to the world’s smallest city, the Vatican, Rome has religion at its heart and history in its soul – a city that dazzles and inspires visitors time and time again.
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For those who crave most of all to see and be seen, this is the place to drape your designer-clad self, especially on warm summer evenings when you can pose unashamed at an outdoor table. In the winter, it’s a cosier, less self-conscious local favourite, although it’s always pretty pricey, as are most places in the Piazza Navona area.
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Overpriced and indifferent, sullen service but a prime location smack on Trastevere’s public “living room”, Piazza Santa Maria. The spremuta (freshly squeezed orange juice) is made from a kilo of oranges.
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Inaugurated in 217 and used until 546, when invading Goths destroyed the aqueducts. Up to 2,000 people at a time could use these luxurious thermae . In general, Roman baths included social centres, art galleries, libraries, brothels and palestrae (exercise areas). Bathing involved taking a sweat bath, a steam bath, a cool-down, then a cold plunge. The Farnese family’s ancient sculpture collection was found here, including Hercules , a signed Greek original. Today, ruins of individual rooms can be seen.
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A large section of this huge 3rd-century AD complex now houses an excellent archaeological museum, including a marble sculpture of Mithras that still retains its gold leaf and paint. A vast Michelangelo cloister is decorated with ancient statuary (see Baths of Diocletian and Aula Ottagona).
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The main collection of this museum is dedicated to rather academic holdings, principally inscriptions and stele (funeral stones). The Aula Ottagona features two 2nd-century BC bronze sculptures of great beauty, which were discovered lovingly hidden in a trench 6 m (20 ft) below the concrete floor of the Temple of the Sun, on the steep hillside of the Quirinal (see Baths of Diocletian).
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In 312 Emperor Constantine, whose mother was a Christian, had a vision of victory under the sign of the Cross and defeated co-emperor Maxentius at Milvian Bridge. He declared Christianity the state religion.
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This simple apartment near the Vatican is clean and quiet, since it’s on the top floor. The basic rooms come with en suite or shared baths, and there’s a breakfast room with a TV.
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The original big budget ($50 million) gladiator epic from 1959. William Wyler directed Charlton Heston as a Jewish prince betrayed into slavery. He bares his chest, wins his freedom and engages in a chariot race that has influenced every cinematic race since. The film won 11 Academy Awards.
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Heavy duty art and antiques of the type more usually found in museums – 15th-century Roman and Florentine Virgin and Childs, works by artists such as Luca Giordano or Fra’ Bartolomeo – plus beautiful furnishings inlaid in mother-of-pearl and hardwoods.
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Poet and film-maker (b.1941). After great success outside Italy he returned home for Stealing Beauty .
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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