DK Travel : Rome : Ancient Rome

This area has always been a contrasting mix of the highest and the lowest, from the most extravagant luxury to the toughest work-a-day world. In ancient times, the emperor’s lavish palaces were built on the Palatine, but they weren’t far from the docks, where roustabouts heaved the tons of goods that were imported to the wealthy city from around the world. There are three hills in the zone: the Palatine and the Aventine are two of the original seven, but Monte Testaccio is entirely man-made. Legend has it that the Aventine was where Remus formed a populist settlement, to rival his twin brother Romulus’s dictatorial encampment (see Romulus and Remus). Over the centuries it has been an area inhabited by poor workers and religious institutions. Today, it has returned to being an enclave of greenery and smart dwellings, studded with hidden art treasures and some of the world’s finest ancient monuments and priceless archaeological finds

Carry a bottle of water with you, which you can refill at little fountains around the area Take a torch (flashlight) and binoculars when visiting churches to see the architectural details close up

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A Morning Parkland Stroll

The parkland on the other side of the Circus Maximus from the Palatine Hill conceals exquisite early churches and other gems. Start on the south side of the Circus Maximus, now a sunken patch of dust and weeds, but once a majestic racecourse until the popes plundered its stones to build their palaces. Head up the hill to the Rose Garden (see Rose and Orange Gardens, Parco Savello). In spring and summer few places in Rome radiate such beauty. Continue along the old wall and enter Parco Savello’s Orange Garden (see Rose and Orange Gardens, Parco Savello) to take in the view from the parapet. Next door is Santa Sabina . Use a torch and binoculars to scrutinize carved wooden doors and the Crucifixion scene. Stop next at Piranesi’s Piazza of the Knights of Malta and peer through the celebrated keyhole.
Wind down Via di San Alessio until Viale Aventino and San Saba. Take time to appreciate the notorious St Nicholas fresco on the left wall. In the Parco della Resistenza dell’8 Settembre you can get a gelato in the park’s café and gaze at length on the 3rd-century Aurelian Wall (see Beyond the City Walls).
Cross over to the lovely Protestant Cemetery, pay your respects at the graves of Shelley, Keats and friends, pause to reflect on the splendid Pyramid of Caius Cestius, and leave your donation in the box as you exit.
Volpetti is a fabulous choice for lunch with a made-to-order gourmet sandwich.
Acqua e Farina?

At “Water and Flour?” practically everything on the menu, from savouries to sweets, is pastry-based and made to an original recipe.
Alpheus

Alpheus contains three different discos, each of which plays different music, plus a garden. It holds special shows too, plus theme nights and the occasional live concert. The entrance ticket includes one free drink.
Augustarello

Roman-style, heavy-duty cookery. Sample tripe, coda alla vaccinara (oxtail), lingua (tongue) and other peasant fare (see Roman Dishes).
Baths of Caracalla

Inaugurated in 217 and used until 546, when invading Goths destroyed the aqueducts. Up to 2,000 people at a time could use these luxurious thermae . In general, Roman baths included social centres, art galleries, libraries, brothels and palestrae (exercise areas). Bathing involved taking a sweat bath, a steam bath, a cool-down, then a cold plunge. The Farnese family’s ancient sculpture collection was found here, including Hercules , a signed Greek original. Today, ruins of individual rooms can be seen.

Gymnasia, Baths of Caracalla
Café de Oriente

Occasional Brazilian bands rock the samba, while the rest of the time Latin-tinged disco gets you going.
Caffè Latino

Films, cabaret and disco with a great, eclectic mix of music.
Checchino dal 1887

Among the great Roman restaurants. Offal-based delicacies such as rigatoni alla pajata (pasta with calf intestine).
Clamur

This pub projects a genuine English atmosphere with a zippy Italian twist. Guinness is on offer, along with snacks.
Da Remo

One of Rome’s quintessential pizzerias. Authentic, cheap and always packed.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €30
- €30-40
- €40-50
- €50-60
- over €60