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Around Piazza Navona : Places to eat

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  • In the heart of Rome's centro storico, this is a surprising non-touristy hotspot that is thronged with fun-loving (and budget-conscious) locals every night. Think of it as a continuous pizza party that you're welcome to crash. Montecarlo is just a sit-down pizza place--nothing trendy--but service is fast and friendly, and there are tons of tables inside and out. Pizzas (thin-crusted, alla romana) start at 5 euros, and inexpensive house wine flows freely. All in all, a great taste of Rome's energy and affability.

  • Trattoria

    Trattoria di Roma's star-studded clientele includes Scarlett Johansson and John Travolta, so right away you know this is one hip restaurant. The décor is thrillingly unique – the walls are covered with woven iron, copper, steel and rope to represent the traditional cooking utensils at the heart of the slow food movement. Yes, this magnificently modern destination eaterie is one of the hotspots of the retro slow food brigade. Its chef, Filippo La Mantia started out as a photojournalist in his native Sicily, recording the doings of the Mafia, but is now a celebrity chef throughout Italy. Diners study him at his stove through the huge tilted glass curtain, the only separation between diners and the heat of the kitchen. La Mantia has earned loads of attention creating Sicilian and Mediterranean dishes infused with details from his tours of the Far East, like cous cous with squid in citrus pesto, sweet and sour tuna, lobster with potatoes in Malvasia glaze, cassata and cannoli. Trattoria enjoys a great location near Rome's Pantheon. Terrific wine list.

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