San Luigi dei Francesi
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France’s national church in Rome has some damaged Domenichino frescoes (1616–17) in the second chapel on the right, but everyone bee-lines for the last chapel on the left, housing three large Caravaggio works. His plebeian, naturalistic approach often ran foul of Counter-Reformation tastes. In a “first draft” version of the Angel and St Matthew , the angel guided the hand of a rough labourer-type saint; the commissioners made the artist replace it with this more courtly one. Underlying sketches in Martyrdom of St Matthew and Calling of St Matthew (see Caravaggio’s Calling of St Matthew) show how Caravaggio was moving away from symbolic compositions in favour of more realistic scenes.
Practical Information
Piazza S Luigi dei Francesi 5
Open 8:30am–12:30pm, 3:30–7pm (closed Thu pm) Free
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