DK Travel : Rome : Around Piazza Navona

This is Baroque Rome in all its theatrical glory, a collection of curvaceous architecture and elaborate fountains by the era’s two greatest architects, Bernini and Borromini, and churches filled with paintings by the likes of Caravaggio and Rubens. The street plan was largely overhauled by 16th- to 18th-century popes attempting to improve the traffic flow from St Peter’s – in fact, a 19th-century plan to turn Piazza Navona into a boulevard from Prati across Ponte Umberto I was only killed when wiser heads widened Corso del Rinascimento instead. However, ancient Rome does peek through in the shape of Piazza Navona and the curve of Palazzo Massimo alle Colonne. This is also a neighbourhood of craftsmen, shopkeepers and antiques restorers and dealers who line Via dei Coronari (see Antiques Shops). More recently the narrow alleys around Via della Pace have become a centre of Roman nightlife, with tiny pubs, trendy cafés and nightspots where the clientele spills out into the streets in summer (see Chic Cafés and Bars).

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Chiesa Nuova

Pietro da Cortona painted the dome and apse and Rubens three sanctuary canvases for this 1575 church.
Cul de Sac

One of Rome’s oldest wine bars, with lots of labels on offer. A bit of a squeeze inside and out, but a better option than the nearby bars of the Piazza Navona.
Domitian’s Stadium

The outline of this AD 86 stadium is echoed in Piazza Navona, built on top of its remains.
Dott. Sergio de Sanctis

Exclusively Italian antiques, mostly elegant 18th- to early 20th-century furnishings and gilt-framed mirrors.
Four Rivers Fountain

The statues ringing Bernini’s theatrical 1651 centrepiece symbolize four rivers representing the continents: the Ganges (Asia, relaxing), Danube (Europe, turning to steady the obelisk), Rio de la Plata (the Americas, bald and reeling), and the Nile (Africa, whose head is hidden since the river’s source was then unknown). The obelisk, balancing over a sculptural void, is a Roman-era fake, its Egyptian granite carved with the hieroglyphic names of Vespasian, Titus and Domitian.
Fraterna Domus

Communal dining in a hospice run by nuns. The set menu offers soup or pasta, a meat course, salad and fruit for dessert.
Galleria Il Colibri

Small but worthy gallery presenting group and solo shows of contemporary painters, as well as historic posters and other types of art media.
Gea Arte Antica

Own your own piece of ancient Rome. Choose from a range of objects, from simple oil lamps to exquisite painted vases.
Il Convivio

For a special night out. One of the historic centre’s best restaurants, with strictly seasonal cuisine based on Italian traditions and an excellent wine list.
Insalata Ricca 2

Rome’s mini-chain of vegetarian-orientated eateries. Huge, inventive salads are the mainstay, although they also offer good pasta dishes. Seating outdoors.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €30
- €30-40
- €40-50
- €50-60
- over €60