DK Travel : Rome : Around Piazza Navona

This is Baroque Rome in all its theatrical glory, a collection of curvaceous architecture and elaborate fountains by the era’s two greatest architects, Bernini and Borromini, and churches filled with paintings by the likes of Caravaggio and Rubens. The street plan was largely overhauled by 16th- to 18th-century popes attempting to improve the traffic flow from St Peter’s – in fact, a 19th-century plan to turn Piazza Navona into a boulevard from Prati across Ponte Umberto I was only killed when wiser heads widened Corso del Rinascimento instead. However, ancient Rome does peek through in the shape of Piazza Navona and the curve of Palazzo Massimo alle Colonne. This is also a neighbourhood of craftsmen, shopkeepers and antiques restorers and dealers who line Via dei Coronari (see Antiques Shops). More recently the narrow alleys around Via della Pace have become a centre of Roman nightlife, with tiny pubs, trendy cafés and nightspots where the clientele spills out into the streets in summer (see Chic Cafés and Bars).

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John Bull Pub

American-style bar positively hopping nightly with plenty of lively young students, both foreign and Italian.
Jonathan’s Angels

Perhaps Rome’s most unique and kitsch nightspot, which should be seen to be believed. Run by a former circus acrobat, it is eccentrically decorated, with a piano bar, tables out on the narrow alley strung with fairy lights, and the occasional impromptu floor show.
La Botticella

Small, always crowded birreria (beerhouse) with some tables outside, in the heart of the area’s nightlife action. Devil’s Kiss and Castlemaine XXXX beer are on tap.
Lilli

An ex-footballer runs this ultra-traditional eatery hidden away in a cul-de-sac next to the riverside boulevard. If you’re looking for a true taste of Rome, the recipes don’t get more Roman than this.
L’Art Nouveau

Antiques shop devoted to Art Nouveau and Liberty style furnishings, lamps, objets d’art and chinoiserie silk tapestries and gowns.
Massimo Maria Melis

This unique jewellery studio wraps 21-carat gold around coins, glass and stones preserved from the Etruscan, Roman and medieval eras.
Museo Napoleonico

A collection of paintings, furnishings and objets d’art that once belonged to the extensive Bonaparte clan.
Nardecchia

Prints, old photographs and watercolours are on sale here, from Piranesi originals to 20th-century works.
Old Bear

Eclectic but good food accompanies a wide range of beers here, with live music played in the basement.
Palazzo Altemps

This 15th-century palace was overhauled in 1585 by Martino Longhi, who is probably also responsible for the stucco and travertine courtyard (previously attributed to Antonio da Sangallo the Younger or Peruzzi). It now makes an excellent home to one wing of the Museo Nazionale Romano, its frescoed rooms filled with ancient sculptures.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €30
- €30-40
- €40-50
- €50-60
- over €60